双针床电脑横机全成形提花编织方法研究  

Research on The Whole-garment Jacquard Knitting Method of Two Needle Bed Computerized Flat Knitting Machine

作　　者：石赛 张靖 Shi Sai;Zhang Jing(Apparel and Art Design College,Xi’an Polytechnic University,Xi’an,Shaanxi 710048,China;Jiangsu Jinlong Technology Co.,Ltd.,Changshu,Jiangsu,215500,China)

机构地区：[1]西安工程大学服装与艺术设计学院,陕西西安710048 [2]江苏金龙科技股份有限公司,江苏常熟215500

出　　处：《天津纺织科技》2024年第3期52-54,共3页Tianjin Textile Science & Technology

摘　　要：基于双针床电脑横机全成形编织问题,尤其是在组织结构的变化方面更是受到极大开发限制。通过对全成形编织针法的深入研究和编织验证,分析总结出浮线提花、空气层提花、隔针提花3种常见全成形提花的编织方法及优缺点。研究表明,双针床电脑横机可以通过针法来实现双层或者更复杂组织的全成形编织,让全成形服装不仅仅停留在单面组织。此外,全成形提花编织不再局限于浮线提花,完全可以实现空气层、隔针等双层提花组织。双针床电脑横机全成形提花编织方法的研究,为双针床电脑横机上的全成形花型开发提供了参考,同时也拓宽了更复杂针法变化的开发思路。The problem of whole-garment knitting which based on double needle bed computerized flat knitting machine,was greatly limited especially in the change of stitches.Through the deep research and verification of the whole-garment knitting stitch,floating line jacquard,air layer jacquard,needle jacquard 3 kinds common jacquard knitting methods are analyzed and summarized,as well as their advantages and disadvantages.Research has shown that double needle bed computerized flat knitting machines can achieve double-layer or more complex knitting stitches through needlework,allowing whole-garment not only stay at the stage of single-layer.Additionally wholegarment jacquard knitting was no longer limited to only one kind of jacquard,which can fully achieve double-layer jacquard stitches such as air layer and spacer needle.The research on the method of full forming jacquard knitting on double bed computerized flat knitting machine provides a reference for the development of the whole-garment pattern on double needle bed computerized flat knitting machine,and also broadens the development idea of more complex knitting stitches.

关 键 词：电脑横机 双针床 提花组织 全成形 编织方法 

分 类 号：TS184.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]