三江侗族自治县侗绣侗锦技艺比较研究  

Comparative Study of Dong Embroidery and Dong Brocade Techniques in Sanjiang Dong Autonomous County

作　　者：吕萌 褚兴彪[1] LYU Meng;CHU Xingbiao(School of Arts,Guangxi University,Nanning 530000,China)

机构地区：[1]广西大学艺术学院,广西南宁530000

出　　处：《西部皮革》2024年第12期32-35,共4页West Leather

基　　金：广西研究生教育创新计划项目“广西高校艺术设计领域少数民族文化创意成果转化论坛”(YCLT2023001)阶段性研究成果。

摘　　要：基于田野调查,文章分析了三江侗族自治县侗族刺绣与织锦技艺,涵盖了其制作流程、技艺精髓及现代传承与发展。侗族织锦技艺源远流长,独具匠心,其织造工具与技艺独具特色。研究认为,在技艺、效率、销售及文化认同性等方面,手工绣花与织锦存在显著差异。手工绣花侧重于剪纸图案,依赖织娘的精湛技艺,周期长且价格高昂,多应用于高级定制服装;而织锦则运用竹片编码原理,效率高,适宜工业化生产,价格亲民且应用广泛。传统手工技艺是民族智慧的结晶,承载着不同民族的传统和精神,在传统服饰中具有不可或缺的文化价值。Based on field research,this article analyzes the techniques of Dong embroidery and Dong brocade in Sanjiang Dong Autonomous County,covering their production processes,technical essence,and modern inheritance and development.The art of Dong brocade has a long history and is known for its ingenuity,characterized by unique weaving tools and techniques.The study finds significant differences between hand embroidery and brocade in terms of craftsmanship,efficiency,sales,and cultural identity.Hand embroidery emphasizes paper-cut patterns,relying on the exquisite skills of weavers,with long production cycles and high prices,mostly used in high-end custom clothing.In contrast,brocade utilizes bamboo coding principles,offering high efficiency,suitability for industrial production,affordability,and wide application.Traditional handicrafts represent the wisdomof a nation,carrying the traditions and spirits of different ethnic groups,and possessing indispensable cultural value in traditional attire.

关 键 词：侗锦 侗绣 织造技艺 纹饰 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]