仿梭织经编服装面料的设计与开发  

Design and Development of Imitating-woven Warp Knitting Garment Fabrics

作　　者：吕春宁 丛洪莲 吴春艳 LV Chun-ning;CONG Hong-lian;WU Chun-yan(Research Center of Knitting Technology,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122;Karl Mayer(China)Co.,Ltd.,Changzhou 213166)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术研究中心,江苏无锡214122 [2]卡尔迈耶(中国)有限公司,江苏常州213166

出　　处：《纺织科学与工程学报》2024年第3期115-120,共6页Journal of Textile Science & Engineering

摘　　要：文章首先从仿梭织经编服装面料的发展现状入手,仿梭织经编服装面料兼具梭织物的机械性能和肌理效果与针织物的舒适性,具有广阔前景;围绕仿梭织经编服装面料的几种花型设计展开,介绍了平纹、条纹、格纹、斜纹、人字纹等的风格特征;提出了几种经典的仿梭织经编服装面料的开发手段,探讨了灯芯绒、毛呢、华达呢、羽绒服面料、T恤面料、西服裤装面料的实现方法;最后揭示了仿梭织经编服装面料时尚多样化、功能丰富化、可持续发展化的发展趋势,为后续仿梭织经编服装面料的研究开发提供借鉴意义。In this paper,the development status of imitating-woven warp knitting garment fabrics was firstly introduced.The imitating-woven warp knitting garment fabrics have the mechanical properties and texture effect of woven fabricas well as the comfort of knitted fabric,showing a broad prospect.Based on the several patterns design of imitating-woven warp knitting garment fabrics,the style features of flat,stripe,plaid,twill and herringbone were presented,the development methods of several classic imitating-woven warp knitting garment fabrics were put forward,the realization methods of corduroy fabric,wool fabric,Huada fabric,down jacket fabric,T-shirt fabric,suit trousers fabric were explored,and the development trend of fashion diversification,function enrichment and sustainable development of imitating-woven warp knitting garment fabrics was revealed,providing reference for further research and development of the fabrics.

关 键 词：经编 仿梭织 服装面料 条纹 斜纹 

分 类 号：TS186[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]