特鼻裈名称及形制演变考释  

Research and Explanation on the Name and Shape Evolution of Du Bi Kun

作　　者：闪雅洁 贺阳 Shan Yajie;He Yang(Academy of Fine Arts,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;Ethnic Costume Museum,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院美术学院,北京100029 [2]北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆,北京100029

出　　处：《艺术与设计（理论版）》2024年第7期110-113,共4页Art and Design

基　　金：教育部服务国家特殊需求博士人才培养项目“中国传统服饰文化抢救传承与设计创新人才培养”(编号:NHFZ20240097)的阶段性成果;北京服装学院“服装学”新兴交叉学科平台建设项目(11000024T000003073871);国家社科基金艺术学重大项目“中华民族服饰文化研究”(编号:18ZD20)。

摘　　要：特鼻裈在汉代为下层阶级劳作时所着下装,对其形制目前存有争议。文章通过梳理古籍文献,结合图像及实物资料,从特鼻裈的命名方式、布幅用度、形制结构等方面进行分析。研究表明:特鼻裈的命名与铜印犊纽、犊牛穿鼻的穿配方式有关,形似鼻钮,汉唐时期为无裤筒、仅可兜档的三角裤;宋明时期三角裤长至犊鼻穴,根据续鼻穴的位置不同,长度有及膝、膝上、膝下之分;至清代三角裤的档底演变为前后开合式。虽特鼻裈的名称、长度、裆部结构发生变化,但始终为“三角形”短裤。The Dubi-Kun was worn as a lower garment during the Han Dynasty when working for the lower class,and there is currently controversy over its shape.This article analyzes the naming method,fabric usage,and shape structure of the Dubi-Kun by combing ancient literature,image and physical materials.Research has shown that the naming of Dubi-Kun is related to the copper printed calf button and the way calves wear their noses,resembling a nose button.During the Han and Tang dynasties,it was a triangular pants without a pants tube and could only be worn with a crotch;During the Song and Ming dynasties,triangular pants were as long as the calf nose acupoint.Depending on the position of the calf nose acupoint,the length could be knee length,above knee length,or below knee length;By the Qing Dynasty,the crotch of triangular pants had evolved into a front and back opening and closing style.Although the name,length,and crotch structure of the Dubi-Kun have changed,it remains a"triangular"shorts.

关 键 词：特鼻裈 名称 形制 演变 三角裤 犊鼻穴 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]