南湖菱壳色素在大麻织物上的染色工艺  

Study of dyeing properties of hemp fabric by trapa acornis nakano shell dyes

作　　者：曹颖[1] 沈之懿 曹宗满 崔利 CAO Ying;SHEN Zhiyi;CAO Zongman;CUI Li(School of Fashion&Art Design,Jiaxing Vocational and Technical College,Jiaxing,Zhejiang 314000,China;Zhejiang Jiaxin Jinsanta Silk Clothing Co.,Ltd.,Jiaxing,Zhejiang 314000,China;College of Materials and Textile Engineering,Jiaxing University,Jiaxing,Zhejiang 314000,China)

机构地区：[1]嘉兴职业技术学院时尚设计学院,浙江嘉兴314000 [2]浙江嘉欣金三塔丝绸服饰有限公司,浙江嘉兴314000 [3]嘉兴大学材料与纺织工程学院,浙江嘉兴314000

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2024年第7期30-36,共7页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：嘉兴职业技术学院校立科研项目(JZYZ202409);嘉兴市科技局科技特派员项目(K2022A013)。

摘　　要：为探讨菱壳色素对大麻织物的染色工艺,采用阳离子改性剂KR、壳聚糖、明胶、改性剂BS对大麻织物进行改性,并对未改性、改性后大麻织物用菱壳色素进行染色。探讨改性剂对菱壳色素直接染色效果的影响;媒染剂单宁酸、明矾、草木灰、柠檬酸对未改性、改性大麻织物菱壳色素染色效果的影响。结果表明:菱壳色素染色的大麻织物具有一定紫外线吸收功能,在可见光中最大波长为380 nm,对应的吸光度是0.067。改性剂BS改性大麻织物直接染色法、未改性大麻织物明矾后媒染、水溶性壳聚糖改性大麻织物明矾后媒染、明胶改性大麻织物明矾后媒染、改性剂BS改性大麻织物草木灰同浴媒染、改性剂BS改性大麻织物明矾后媒染的K/S值均在在3.990以上,染色牢度均在3级及以上。除BS改性剂改性大麻织物直接染色法工艺湿摩擦色牢度为3级外,其他各种工艺的色牢度都在3~4级及以上,耐光色牢度最高达到5级。To explore the dyeing process problem of hemp fiber with trapa acornis nakano shell pigment,cationic modifiers KR,chitosan,gelatin,and BS modifiers were used to modify hemp,and unmodified and modified hemp were dyed with the dye.The influence of modifiers on the direct dyeing effect of trapa acornis nakano shell dye was discussed.The effects of mordant tannic acid,alum,plant ash and citric acid on the dyeing of unmodified hemp and modified hemp fabric with trapa acornis nakano shell dye were studied.The results show that the fabric dyed with trapa acornis nakano shell dye has a certain UV absorption function and the maximum wavelength in visible light is 380 nm,corresponding to an absorbance of 0.067 K/S value of BS modified direct dyeing method,unmodified Hanma alum post mordant method,water-soluble chitosan modified Hanma alum post mordant dyeing method,gelatin modified Hanma alum post mordant dyeing method,BS modified Hanma grass and wood ash one bath mordant dyeing method and BS modified Hanma alum post mordant methods are all above 3.990,their dyeing fastnesses are all at level 3 or above.Except for the BS modified direct dyeing process,which has a wet friction fastness of level 3,all other processes have a color fastness of level 3-4 or above,with the highest light fastness reaching level 5.

关 键 词：植物染料 南湖菱壳 色素 染色工艺 改性 媒染 

分 类 号：TS195[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]