调湿控温纤维对西服穿着系统干燥速率的影响  

Research on the influence of moisture and temperature regulating fibers on the drying rate of suit wearing systems

作　　者：俞金林 王荣 YU Jinlin;WANG Rong(Jiangsu Danmao Textile Co.,Ltd.,Zhenjiang,Jiangsu 212351,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司,江苏镇江212351

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2024年第7期64-68,共5页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：商务西服是羊毛精纺面料的重要应用领域之一,但由于其使用场合的要求,往往无法兼顾穿着的舒适性,针对目前对汽态汗在西服面料以及西服衬衫配套系统中传输速度研究较少的现状,以AATCC 201—2014《织物干燥速率加热板法》中的测试方法为基础,通过实验设计模拟人体在少量运动和静坐状态下汽态汗在不同服装系统中的蒸发情况,并分别进行了单层面料、西服+里料系统、西服+衬衫系统的对比测试。实验结果表明:调湿控温纤维的加入可以提高汽态汗的蒸发速率,越贴近皮肤层采用调湿控温纤维效果越显著,从里层到外层都采用调湿控温纤维,可以让整个汽态汗传输保持连续,效果也更加显著;在单层面料测试对比中,加入调湿控温纤维的面料比普通毛/涤面料的干燥速率提升13%;与普通毛/涤西服面料+常规里布相比,里布和面料都采用调湿控温纤维的西服系统的干燥速率提升46.9%,与普通毛/涤西服面料+普通衬衫面料相比,衬衫面料和毛/涤面料都采用调湿控温纤维西服系统的干燥速率提升51.2%左右。Business suits are one of the important application areas of wool worsted fabrics,but due to the requirements of their usage scenarios,they often cannot balance the comfort of wearing.In response to the current situation of limited research on the transmission speed of steam sweat in suit fabrics and suit shirt matching systems,based on the testing method in AATCC 201-2014"Fabric Drying Rate Heating Plate Method",experimental designs were conducted to simulate the evaporation of steam sweat in different clothing systems under small amounts of exercise and sitting,and comparative tests were conducted on single-layer fabrics,suit+lining systems,and suit+shirt systems.The experimental results show that the addition of moisture and temperature regulating fibers can improve the evaporation rate of moisture.The closer to the skin layer,the more significant the effect of using moisture and temperature regulating fibers.Moisture and temperature regulating fibers are used from the inner layer to the outer layer,which can keep the entire moisture transmission continuous and the effect is more significant;In the comparison of single-layer fabric testing,the addition of moisture and temperature regulating fibers can increase the drying rate of the fabric by about 13%compared to ordinary wool/polyester fabrics;Compared with regular wool/polyester fabric and regular lining,both lining and fabric use a moisture and temperature control fiber suit system,which increases the drying rate by about 46.9%.Compared with ordinary wool/polyester fabric and ordinary shirt fabric system,both shirt fabric and wool/polyester fabric use moisture and temperature regulating fibers,which increase the drying rate by about 51.2%.

关 键 词：调湿控温纤维 羊毛 干燥速率 西服 

分 类 号：TS137[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]