杭缎的溯源及品种特征分析  

Traceability and variety characteristics analysis of Hangzhou satin

作　　者：金瑶瑶 周赳 JIN Yaoyao;ZHOU Jiu(College of Textile Science and Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zhejiang Provincial Research Center of Silk and Fashion Culture,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第8期134-142,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金艺术学项目(22BG121)。

摘　　要：杭缎隶属于传统十四大类丝绸品种之一的缎类品种,是古代和近现代杭州地区生产的最重要的丝绸品种之一。文章从杭缎的起源和发展历程进行梳理,对杭缎的品种进行界定,并从艺术特征和技术特征两个维度对杭缎进行美学特征分析。研究发现:宋代时杭州地区已有缎织物出现,明代时杭州的缎成为独立品种并在清时被冠名“杭缎”,杭缎有素缎、提花缎和缎地像景三类;纹样分传统中式以图达意和西式立体写实两类风格;色彩多为杭青色、浅色、红色与青色;杭缎产品具有光泽柔和、质地细腻和手感柔软的优秀特征。本研究成果将助力杭缎品种的历史传承和当代创新。Hangzhou satin refers to the satin products that originated in the Hangzhou region.Hangzhou satin is one of the most local textiles in Hangzhou,and,along with Hangzhou gauze,is recognized as a representative of Hangzhou silk,collectively known as“Suzhou silk and Hangzhou satin”.In 2023,it was rated as a provincial level intangible cultural heritage of Zhejiang province,and the inheritance and innovation of Hangzhou satin have since ushered in new development opportunities.This article aims to provide cultural and case support for the preservation and innovation of Hangzhou satin,and to enrich research on Zhejiang silk culture and products.This paper defined the varieties of Hangzhou satin based on the origin and development of Hangzhou satin,and summarized the artistic and technical beauty characteristics of Hangzhou satin through the analysis of the weave structure,appearance effect and raw materials of Hangzhou satin products,so as to explore the historical and cultural value of Hangzhou satin.The results show that Hangzhou satin was first produced during the Song Dynasty,became a separate variety in the Ming Dynasty and developed more new varieties of products in the Qing Dynasty and modern times,such as Keli satin damask,rayon soft satin and antique brocade;Hangzhou satin,mainly composed of jacquard on satin ground,is divided into plain satin,jacquard satin and photograph-like jacquard satin.The jacquard satin fall into three categories:single layer jacquard,filling-backed jacquard and double jacquard.In the contemporary era of fabric digital design,Hangzhou satin refers to the satin fabric produced in Hangzhou with satin and sateen weave or satin change,which is divided into clear ground(where satin and sateen weaves occupy three-quarters of the surface area),full ground(where three quarters of the floral area is occupied by satin and sateen weaves)and mixed ground(where flower and ground satin and sateen weave accounts for three-quarters of the visual surface area of the fabric).There are two styles of

关 键 词：丝绸 缎 杭缎 历史溯源 品种 美学特征 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]