基于八梭位装备的三重纬锦花纹色彩层次研究  

Research on the color layer of triple weft brocade pattern based on eight-shuttle position equipment

作　　者：毛明山 眭建华[2] Mao Mingshan;Sui Jianhua(Suzhou qiluo silk-science Co.Ltd.Suzhou,215228;Soochow University,Suzhou,215021)

机构地区：[1]苏州绮罗丝绸科技有限公司,江苏苏州215228 [2]苏州大学,江苏苏州215021

出　　处：《江苏丝绸》2024年第3期11-19,共9页Jiangsu Silk

摘　　要：针对纬锦织物的色彩设计,研究总梭位数为8条件下梭位数量及位置配置、纬线引出方式与纬三重结构大提花织物的花纹色彩之间的关系。设定7个单纬起花、混纬起花组织,建立梭位配置方案表,分析了全常抛、分段纯色彩抛、分段混色彩抛、非固定梭位配置分段彩抛几种引纬方式下的花纹色彩层次数。结果表明:全常抛引纬的花纹色彩层次数与花纹组织配置数相等;分段纯色彩抛引纬的可分区段数、花纹色彩层次数与不同组别彩抛纬配置的梭位数存在数学关联;分段混色彩抛引纬的色彩搭配比较丰富,但对同一引纬区段不会产生花纹色彩层次数的变化;非固定梭位分段引纬可以使花纹色彩分布产生变化,但不会造成花纹色彩层次数的变化,梭位数配置与可分区段数之间存在数学关联。For the color design of weft brocade fabrics,the relationship between the number and position of bobbin configuration,the weft thread leading method and the pattern color of jacquard fabrics with triple weft structure under the condition of 8 total bobbin positions is studied.Seven single weft starting and mixed weft starting organizations were set up,and the shuttle position configuration table was established to analyze the number of pattern color layers under several weft leading methods,such as full constant casting,segmented pure color casting,segmented mixed color casting,and non-fixed shuttle position configuration segmented color casting.The results show that:the number of pattern color layers is equal to the number of pattern organization configurations in full normal casting;there are mathematical correlations between the number of divisible segments,the number of pattern color layers and the number of bobbins configured for different groups of color casting in sectional pure color casting;the color matching of sectional mixed color casting can be more abundant,but it will not produce changes in the number of pattern color layers in the same section of the drawing-in;the segmented drawing-in of non-fixed bobbins can produce changes in pattern color distribution,but it will not cause changes in the number of color layers.The non-fixed shuttle position segmented weft insertion can make the pattern color distribution change,but it will not cause the change of the number of pattern color layers,and there is a mathematical correlation between the number of bobbin configuration and the number of divisible segments.

关 键 词：三重纬锦 花纹组织 梭位配置 引纬方式 常抛 彩抛 引纬区段 花纹色彩层次 

分 类 号：TS105[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]