20世纪50-80年代织锦缎花卉纹样设计的范式特征研究  

Study on the Paradigms and Characteristics of brocade fioralpattern design from1950s to1980s

作　　者：俞颍 龚建培[1] Yu Ying;Gong Jianpei(Nanjing University of the Arts,Nanjing 210013,China)

机构地区：[1]南京艺术学院设计学院,江苏南京210013

出　　处：《江苏丝绸》2024年第3期32-37,41,共7页Jiangsu Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金艺术学项目(21GB128)。

摘　　要：20世纪50-80年代,丝绸产品为助力国内经济复苏和出口贸易创汇做出了贡献,随着技术、工艺、纤维的不断进步与发展,设计生产了大批用于内销和外销丝绸新花色、新品种。此研究以范式理论为基本依据,以当时重要的丝绸品种之一——织锦缎为主要对象,从图像学、文献学等角度,分析、探讨了织锦缎花卉纹样设计观念、方式的演变过程,设计范式的转换途径及相异模式,同时也阐释了丝绸设计范式发展与政治、社会、经济、人文发展之间的关系,为现代丝绸设计范式的发展与建构提供相应的启示。TFrom the 1950s to the 1980s,silk products have made contributions to the recovery of domestic economy and the earning of foreign exchange in export trade.With the continuous progress and development of technology,technology and fibers,a large number of new colors and varieties of silk have been designed and produced for domestic and export sales.Based on the theory of paradigm and taking brocade,one of the important silk varieties at that time,as the main object,this study analyzed and discussed the evolution process of the design concept and mode of brocade flower pattern,the transformation way of design paradigm and the different mode from the perspectives of iconography and philology.At the same time,it also explains the relationship between the development of silk design paradigm and the development of politics,society,economy and humanity,and provides corresponding enlightenment for the development and construction of modern silk design paradigm.

关 键 词：20世纪50-80年代 织锦缎 花卉纹样 设计范式 特征转换 

分 类 号：J506[艺术—艺术设计]