层彩涡流色纺纱的开发与实践  

Development and practice of multi-colored yarn by vortex spinning

作　　者：张文徽[1] 刘大勇 汪军[3] ZHANG Wenhui;LIU Dayong;WANG Jun(Anhui Vocational and Technical College,Hefei 230011,China;Hangzhou Tianchen New Material Technology Co.,Ltd.,Hangzhou 310000,China;Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China)

机构地区：[1]安徽职业技术学院,安徽合肥230011 [2]杭州天晨新材料科技有限公司,浙江杭州310000 [3]东华大学,上海201620

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2024年第8期72-76,共5页Cotton Textile Technology

基　　金：安徽省高校重点科研项目(自然科学类)(2022AH052066);安徽省高校重大科研项目(社会科学类)(SK2021ZD0111);安徽省级质量工程教学创新团队项目(2021jxtd156)。

摘　　要：针对牛仔纱的流行趋势及目前染色存在的不足,模拟牛仔色纱特征,开发一种层彩涡流色纺纱。融合了传统环锭纺和喷气涡流包芯纺技术,芯纱采用短纤维纱线代替长丝,以达到芯纱色彩可调、粗细可调、捻向可调;纺纱过程中通过芯纱与外包层纤维捻向相反组合技术,选择相应的捻系数,抵消纤维的加捻应力;利用喷气涡流纺包缠不均匀的特点,可呈现独特的露芯效果,内外层可采用不同颜色及配比。纺制的层彩涡流色纺纱可作为针织、机织用纱,丰富的色彩变化使层彩涡流色纺纱可用于生产无染牛仔织物。Aiming at the trend of denim yarn and the deficiencies of the current dyeing,characteristics of denim colored yarn were simulated and a multi-colored yarn by vortex spinning was developed.Traditional ring spinning and air-jet vortex core-spun technology were combined.Short staple fibers were taken as core yarn instead of filament to achieve the color of core yarn,the thickness and twist direction could be adjusted.The twisting stress of the fibers was counteracted by combining the core yarn with the opposite twist direction of the outer layer fibers and selecting the corresponding twist coefficients during the spinning process.The use of uneven wrapping effect of the air-jet vortex spinning could highlight the unique exposed core effect,inner and outer layers could be used in different colors and ratios.The multi-colored yarn by vortex spinning coud be used for knitting and weaving,the rich color variation of multi-colored yarn by vortex spinning was suitable for the production of dye-free denim production.

关 键 词：牛仔纱 纤维 层彩色纺纱 涡流纺 芯纱 布面效果 

分 类 号：TS104.7[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]