吐鲁番出土随葬衣物疏所见服饰信息辨析——以褶袴为例  

A Textual Study on Passages Relating to Clothing in the Documents Found among Burial Items Unearthed in Turfan--A Case Study of Xi-Ku

作　　者：沈雪 郑炳林[1] SHEN Xue;ZHENG BingLin(Institute of Dunhuang Studies,Lanzhou University,Lanzhou 730020,Gansu)

机构地区：[1]兰州大学敦煌学研究所,甘肃兰州730020

出　　处：《敦煌研究》2024年第3期114-126,共13页Dunhuang Research

摘　　要：吐鲁番随葬衣物疏记载的服饰信息情况多样,虽不能完全对应实际的随葬衣物,甚至后来只是作为象征物存在,但却在一定程度上反映了逝者生前的着装情况。其中,褶、袴、褶袴这三个词出现的次数尤多,这三者代表的服装在史籍及出土文书中均有记载,但多有歧义。尤其是“褶袴”的起源多与胡服关联,但“褶”与“袴”在文献里却并不属于胡服。本文旨在辨析这三者的真正面貌,从而管窥丝路上不同文化碰撞、交融所产生的服饰风格的多元性和创新性。The documents found among burial items unearthed at Turfan have provided a wealth of information about ancient clothing.Although the items listed in the texts do not often fully correspond to the actual funeral clothes discovered in ancient tombs,they do reflect how the deceased must have dressed when they were alive to a certain extent.Among the articles of clothing mentioned,xi褶(robe),ku袴(trousers)and xi-ku褶袴appear most frequently.The three items of clothing mentioned above have been found in many unearthed manuscripts and in various examples of historical literature,though many ambiguities about the details of what they actually looked and how they were made like have yet to be illuminated.In particular,the origin of xi-ku is associated mostly with Hu-style clothing,but xi and ku,respectively,are never mentioned as being Hu clothing in the documents.By distinguishing the exact features of these three types of clothing,this paper attempts to explore the diversity and innovation of clothing styles that resulted from the collision and integration that occurred between different cultures as they met along the ancient Silk Road.

关 键 词：高昌 随葬衣物疏 褶袴 胡服 

分 类 号：K877.9[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学]