壬二酸和壳多糖包被的壬二酸复合物的皮肤吸收效率及抗炎能力比较研究  

Comparation of azelaic acid and chitosan encapsulated-azelaic acid complex in skin absorption efficiency and anti-inflammatory capability

作　　者：袁旻嘉 李琦 朱翠翠 帖航 Minjia Yuan;Qi Li;Cuicui Zhu;Hang Tie(Shanghai Qiran Biotechnology Co.,Ltd.,Shanghai 201702,China;Shanghai Jinjia Technology Co.,Ltd.,Shanghai 201210,China;Chinese Academy of Inspection&Quarantine Greater Bay Area,Guangzhou,Guangdong 528400,China)

机构地区：[1]上海其然生物科技有限公司,上海201702 [2]上海缙嘉科技有限公司,上海201210 [3]中国检验检疫科学研究院粤港澳大湾区研究院,广东广州528400

出　　处：《日用化学工业（中英文）》2024年第8期956-965,共10页China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics

摘　　要：文章旨在比较壬二酸以及壳多糖包被的壬二酸作为化妆品原料,在皮肤吸收效率、去角质、抗炎和5α-还原酶抑制方面的功能差异。研究结果表明,壬二酸的皮肤吸收效果明显高于壬二酸壳多糖;在去角质方面,壬二酸和壬二酸壳多糖都具有一定的去角质功效,但与壬二酸壳多糖相比,壬二酸单独处理后洗脱的角质细胞数量和总蛋白含量分别比壬二酸壳多糖高25.86%,27.80%;而在抗炎方面,在同等浓度下,壬二酸壳多糖对炎症因子肿瘤坏死因子-α(TNF-α)、前列腺素E2(PGE2)和环氧化酶-2(COX-2)的抑制效果显著高于壬二酸,但对于5α-还原酶的酶活抑制率二者无明显差异,表明两种原料在作为化妆品原料的功效方面各有优势。研究为壬二酸和壳多糖包被的壬二酸作为化妆品原料的应用提供了必要数据支撑,同时为评估壳多糖作为一种化妆品原料包被材料的应用潜力提供了参考依据。The objective of this research was to compare the functional differences between azelaic acid and chitosan-coated azelaic acid as cosmetic raw materials in terms of skin absorption efficiency,exfoliation,anti-inflammatory and 5α-reductase inhibition.The results showed that the skin absorption of azelaic acid was significantly higher compared to azelaic-chitosan.In terms of exfoliation,both azelaic acid and azelaic-chitosan had a certain exfoliating efficacy.However,compared to azelaic-chitosan,azelaic acid alone resulted in a 25.86%higher number of detached corneocytes and a 27.80%higher total protein content.In terms of anti-inflammation,azelaicchitosan at the same concentration showed significantly greater inhibitory effects on inflammatory factors such as tumor necrosis factor-α(TNF-α),prostaglandin E2(PGE2),and cyclooxygenase-2(COX-2)compared to decanoic acid.Besides,there was no significant difference in inhibitory activity of 5α-reductase between the two groups.These results suggested that both materials had their advantages in terms of their efficacy as cosmetic ingredients.This study contributed to harnessing the potential benefits of azelaic acid and chitosan coating as cosmetic ingredients while providing valuable reference data for evaluating the application potential of chitosan as a coating material in cosmetics.

关 键 词：壬二酸 壬二酸壳多糖 皮肤吸收效率 抗炎能力 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]