经编贾卡间隔鞋面材料提花层结构对其拉伸性能的影响  

Influence of jacquard layer structure of warp knitted jacquard spacer shoe-upper materials on tensile properties

作　　者：张琦 屠佳妮 张燕婷 丁宁宇 郝佳姝 彭诗语 ZHANG Qi;TU Jiani;ZHANG Yanting;DING Ningyu;HAO Jiashu;PENG Shiyu(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2024年第8期150-157,共8页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(JUSRP123005);无锡市“太湖之光”科技攻关(基础研究)项目(K20221007)。

摘　　要：为使经编贾卡间隔鞋面材料兼具透气舒适性与良好力学性能,选取4种不同提花层结构的贾卡间隔鞋面材料进行拉伸断裂实验和不同定载荷下的循环拉伸实验,探究在产品设计时由于厚组织与网眼组织的比例不同及排布方式变化导致的织物不同方向上拉伸变形特性的差异。结果表明:提花层结构中厚组织与网眼组织的比例是影响织物拉伸性能的主要因素,增加厚组织的比例能够提高鞋面材料的断裂强力和循环拉伸性能,全厚组织织物的拉伸性能最好;改变厚组织与网眼组织的排布方式也会影响鞋面材料的拉伸性能,增加延展线的数量和长度,纵向减少连续排列的网眼组织线圈横列数以减小网眼尺寸,可改善鞋面材料的断裂强力和循环拉伸性能;织物纵向拉伸性能明显优于横向,在循环拉伸实验中,织物纵向产生的残余变形远小于横向,且循环拉伸后纵向断裂强力高于循环拉伸前的横向断裂强力,故在实际应用中应避免将织物横向排列在受力方向上。Objective Warp knitted jacquard spacer fabrics are widely used in sports shoes.In order to ensure the comfort of sports shoes,mesh is usually formed in the shoe-upper materials to improve the air permeability,but the mesh inevitably affects the tensile properties of fabrics,and in actual wearing.The shoe-upper materials endure long-term cyclic tensioning and eventually produce irreversible deformation,but this phenomenon is rarely explored up to date.Therefore,it is necessary to study the factors affecting the cyclic tensile properties of shoe-upper materials and optimize the design of the jacquard structure,aiming to achieve a better balance between the permeability and mechanical properties of the material and improve its service life.Method The study selected warp knitted jacquard spacer fabrics with different jacquard layer structures commonly used in shoe-upper materials as samples,and tensile break experiments were conducted on MTS Exceed Model E43 to determine the tensile limit range.Three sets of constant load schemes were designed based on application scenarios,and 200 cyclic tensile tests were carried out on MARK-10 tensile tester to compare and analyze the influence of jacquard layer structure on the tensile properties of fabrics.Tensile break test was carried out after cyclic stretching to compare the mechanical properties of the samples before they were gone through the cyclic tensile test.Results The tensile break results showed that the breaking strength of the same fabric in the wale direction was greater than that in the course direction,while the breaking elongation at break in the wale direction was smaller than that in the course direction,which was due to the chain stitch limiting the fabric elongation.When other conditions are kept the same,the sample with jacquard layer structure only consisting of solid structures has the highest breaking strength and the lowest elongation at break in both directions.Based on this,for every 25%increase in mesh structure,the breaking strength in the wale di

关 键 词：经编间隔织物 鞋面材料 贾卡提花 提花层结构 拉伸性能 

分 类 号：TS186.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]