工艺观视角下新疆维吾尔族扎经染色织造设计研究  

Research on theDesign of Warp Tie-Dyeing Fabric of Uygur Nationality in Xinjiang from the Perspective of Craft Concept

作　　者：周莹[1] 郑国华 贺顺茹 Zhou Ying;Zheng Guohua;He Shunru

机构地区：[1]中央民族大学美术学院,北京100081

出　　处：《南京艺术学院学报（美术与设计）》2024年第4期128-133,I0003,共7页Journal of Nanjing Arts Institute:Fine Arts & Design

基　　金：国家社科基金重大项目“中国古代北方民族服饰文化融合及中华文化认同实证研究”(19ZDA183)阶段性研究成果。

摘　　要：为深入理解扎经染色技艺的内在设计机理,本文以新疆维吾尔族扎经染色织造设计为例,从工艺观视阈下解读其织造技艺设计审美特征,归纳总结其因在选材、扎经、染色、织造等技艺方面由“随其所宜”的设计理念所呈现出的独特风格,探讨其如何以“巧法”呈现出“技纹相宜”“技以载道”的织物造型特色与设计表现背后的文化。In order to gain a deeper understanding of the inherent design mechanism of warp knitting and dyeing techniques,this article takes the design of Xinjiang Uyghur warp knitting and dyeing as an example.From the perspective of craftsmanship,it interprets the aesthetic characteristics of its weaving and dyeing techniques,summarizes the unique style presented by the design concept of“adapting to its own needs”in material selection,warp knitting,dyeing,and weaving,and explores how it presents the unique style and design expression of“matching technical patterns”and“carrying skills”through“skillful methods,”and explores the cultural characteristics behind the design expression.

关 键 词：扎经染色 新疆维吾尔族 艾德莱斯 工艺观 

分 类 号：J523[艺术—艺术设计]