点翠工艺材料替换及其在皮革配饰领域的应用探索  

Research on the Replacement of Kingfisher Feather Craftsmanship Materials and its Application in the Field of Leather Accessories

作　　者：姚云鹤[1,2,3] 张若男 方束元驰 濮瑞凝 唐欣雨 钟银银 YAO Yunhe;ZHANG Ruonan;FANG Shuyuanchi;PU Ruining;TANG Xinyu;ZHONG Yinyin(National Engineering Laboratory for Clean Technology of Leather Manufacture,Sichuan University,Chengdu 610065,China;Key Laboratory of Leather Chemistry and Engineering of Ministry of Education,Sichuan University,Chengdu 610065,China;College of Biomass Science and Engineering,Sichuan University,Chengdu 610065,China;Art College of Sichuan University,Chengdu 610065,China;College of Architecture&Environment,Sichuan University,Chengdu 610065,China;College of Water resource&Hydropower,Sichuan University,Chengdu 610065,China)

机构地区：[1]四川大学制革清洁技术国家工程实验室,四川成都610065 [2]四川大学皮革化学与工程教育部重点实验室,四川成都610065 [3]四川大学轻工科学与工程学院,四川成都610065 [4]四川大学艺术学院,四川成都610065 [5]四川大学建筑与环境学院,四川成都610065 [6]四川大学水利水电学院,四川成都610065

出　　处：《皮革科学与工程》2024年第5期92-98,共7页Leather Science and Engineering

基　　金：温州鞋革产业研究院课题(2021WZSLCQ01);四川大学大学生创新创业项目(S202310610499) 。

摘　　要：点翠工艺是极具中华文化意蕴的非物质文化遗产,在古代高等级服饰中占有重要地位,但因其所用的翠羽材料不符合时代要求而濒临窘境。文章通过多种天然羽毛材料及纺织材料的替代试验,结合现代皮革配饰品特点进行设计转化与创新性应用。并在此基础上提出以消费需求为引擎,彰显产品时尚属性,兼容相关非遗文化元素,赋予产品故事性等手段,为点翠工艺在皮革制品领域的生产性保护提供思路与借鉴。The Kingfisher feather craftsmanship is an intangible cultural heritage with great Chinese cultural significance,which occupies an important position in ancient high-grade clothing.Because the feather materials used do not meet the demands of the times,it is on the verge of dilemma.Through the substitution test of several natural feather materials and textile materials,this article delved into the transformation of design and innovative application of the Kingfisher feather craftsmanship based on the distinctive features of modern leather accessories.On this basis,it is proposed that the design and application of the Kingfisher feather craftsmanship need to be driven by consumption demands,highlighting fashionable attributes while endowing the products with a sense of story through the integration of intangible cultural elements.With this study,it is expected to provide thoughts and reference for the productive protection of Kingfisher feather craftsmanship in the field of leather products.

关 键 词：点翠 工艺 皮革 配饰 材料 设计 

分 类 号：TS56[轻工技术与工程—皮革化学与工程]