德昌傈僳族刺绣纹样在植物皮革箱包中的创新设计研究  

Research on the Innovative Design of Dechang Lisu Embroidery Pattern on Plant Leather Bag

作　　者：吴济池 谭欣[2] 彭东伟 WU Jichi;TAN Xin;PENG Dongwei(Academy of Fine Arts of Minzu University of China,Beijing 100081,China;Academy of Fine Arts of Southwest Minzu University,Chengdu 610041,China;Peng Dongwei,Chongqing Technology&Business University,Modern International Art&Design Academy,Chongqing 400067,China)

机构地区：[1]中央民族大学美术学院,北京100081 [2]西南民族大学艺术学院,四川成都610041 [3]重庆工商大学现代国际设计艺术学院,重庆400067

出　　处：《皮革科学与工程》2024年第5期99-106,共8页Leather Science and Engineering

基　　金：2023年教育部产学研合作协同育人项目(230816284707269);西南民族大学教育教学研究与改革一般项目资助(2021YB94)。

摘　　要：德昌傈僳族刺绣纹样题材丰富、造型精美,图案取材于生活,具有鲜明的地域特色和文化内涵。结合设计学和民族学的研究方法,以田野考察收集到的一手图文资料及传承人的访谈材料为基础,对刺绣材料与工艺技法、纹样题材与造型手法、图案构成与色彩组合等进行分析总结,并提取典型纹样进行设计转化。秉承绿色发展的造物理念,产品选用可回收和可降解的植物纤维合成皮革,将创新衍生纹样与刺绣印染工艺结合,制作出时尚百搭的多功能箱包产品。旨在探索民族刺绣纹样在植物皮革箱包中的艺术设计价值与多元转化路径,为推动德昌傈僳族非物质文化遗产的传续发展和民族手工艺术创新实践提供新的参考。The Dechang Lisu embroidery patterns are rich in themes and exquisite in shapes,and the patterns are inspired by daily life with distinctive regional characteristics and cultural connotations.Combining the research methods of design and ethnology,and based on the first-hand graphic and textual data collected from fieldwork and interviews with the inheritors,this research analyzed and summarized the embroidery materials and techniques,pattern themes and modeling techniques,pattern compositions and color combinations,etc.,and extracted the typical patterns for design transformation.Adhering to the concept of green development,the products were made of recyclable and safe biodegradable plant fiber synthetic leather.By combining innovative derivative patterns with embroidery and dyeing techniques,versatile and fashionable luggage bags are created.This research aims to explore the artistic design value and diversified transformation path of ethnic embroidery patterns in plant leather bags,and provide a new reference for promoting the development of Dechang Lisu intangible cultural heritage and the innovative practice of ethnic handicrafts.

关 键 词：德昌傈僳族 刺绣 纹样 植物皮革 箱包 创新设计 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]