《急就篇》中“绛缇絓紬丝絮绵,㠲敝囊橐不直钱”纺织句章的辨析  

An Analysis of the Textile Sentences and Chapters of绛缇絓紬絲絮綿,㠲敝囊橐不直钱in Ji-Jiu-Pian

作　　者：胡晓涵 朱泽钰 程轶凡 李强 HU Xiaohan;ZHU Zeyu;CHENG Yifan;LI Qiang(School of Fashion Design,Wuhan Hubei 430073,China;Office of Journal,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan Hubei 430073,China;College of Marxism,Guangxi Arts University,Nanning Guangxi 530022,China;School of History and Culture,Central China Normal University,Wuhan Hubei 430079,China;School of Fashion Design,Jiangxi Institute of Fashion,Nanchang Jiangxi 330201,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,湖北武汉430073 [2]武汉纺织大学期刊社,湖北武汉430200 [3]广西艺术学院马克思主义学院,广西南宁530022 [4]华中师范大学历史文化学院,湖北武汉430079 [5]江西服装学院服装设计学院,江西南昌330201

出　　处：《武汉纺织大学学报》2024年第4期13-22,共10页Journal of Wuhan Textile University

基　　金：教育部人文社学科学研究规划项目(21YJA760032);湖北省教育厅哲学社会科学研究一般项目(20Y075);江西服装学院中华服饰文化研究院“十三五”规划招标项目(02).

摘　　要：《急就篇》中“绛缇絓紬丝絮绵,㠲敝囊橐不直钱”这一句章中所涉及的相关信息是研究中国纺织文化的重要依据,目前对其中所涉及纺织信息的解读层出不穷,但由于史料信息的局限性,存在不完整的解读及偏差。文章基于对各代的相关解读,进行文献考据和文物等实证相结合的二维互证法复盘研究,研究认为:1)绛、缇都是与纺织有高度相关的间色,都来源于植物染绛草,绛通过媒介去除其中的黄色素印染形成深红色,只有特殊地位的人才可使用;缇则是橘红色,直接由染绛草中的黄色与红色混合印染而成,后成为缇衣,是缇骑的代表服饰,两者虽非正色,但都具有阶级属性。2)丝指代有蚕茧丝和棉丝,中国是最早养蚕丝织的国家。绵、絮都来自茧丝,蚕茧在脱胶过程中形成较为精细的部分为绵,剩下较为杂乱仍保留部分胶质的部分则为绵。絓与紬都是粗丝,不同的是纟由来自柞蚕丝属于东北地区特色茧丝,本身丝线粗大,纟圭则是采用蚕丝中的废茧加工而成。3)巾匕与敝都指代破旧织物,巾匕意指破旧的布帛,敝则指代破旧的衣服,后世敝专指破旧,需要用敝衣表示破旧的衣物。囊与橐都指代装物的袋子,囊是一端开口装物后系扎,有方底和圆底两种样式;橐为两端开口装物后系扎两端或两端有底中间开口驼在两端,常在长途运输中使用,在中国古代官场上囊橐在外加封检作为传递文书的重要工具,由青、皂、赤白不同颜色表示文书的紧急程度及分类。4)句章最后“不直钱”并未指其没有价值,而是指囊橐在日常生活中经常可见,并不稀奇的意思。The relevant information involved in the textile sentence of绛缇絓紬絲絮綿,㠲敝囊橐不直钱in the Ji-Jiu-Pian is an important basis for studying Chinese textile culture.Currently,there are numerous interpretations of the textile information involved,but due to the limitations of historical information,there are incomplete interpretations and deviations.The article conducts a two-dimensional mutual verification study based on relevant interpretations of different generations,combining literature research and cultural relic evidence.The study believes that:①绛and缇are highly related to textile intermediate colors,originating from the plant染绛草.绛is printed and dyed deep red by removing the yellow pigment through the medium,which can be used by talents with special status;The缇is an orange red color,directly printed and dyed by a mixture of yellow and red in the染绛草,which later became the representative clothing of the缇骑.Although they are not legitimate colors,both have class attributes絲refers to the silkworms"cocoon silk"and"cotton silk".China was one of the earliest countries to cultivate silk and one of the earliest to cultivate cotton.Both綿and絮come from"cocoon silk".The finer part formed during the degumming process of silkworm cocoons is called綿,while the remaining messy part that still retains some of the colloid is called絮.Both紬and絓are coarse silk,but the difference is that紬comes from柞蚕丝,which is a characteristic cocoon silk in Northeast China.The silk thread itself is thick,while絓is processed from"waste cocoons"in silk③Both㠲and敝refer to worn-out fabrics,㠲refers to worn-out fabrics,敝refers to worn-out clothes,and in later times,敝specifically refers to worn-out,which need to be represented by敝衣to mean clothes.Both囊and橐refer to bags that hold objects.囊refers to a bag that is opened at one end to hold objects and tied together,with two styles:square and round bottoms;橐refers to the binding of objects at both ends or the middle openin

关 键 词：《急就篇》 句章 颜色 织物 服饰 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]