模板机缝制过程的织物压缩滑动力学性能研究  

Study on the mechanical properties of fabric compression sliding in the sewing process of template sewing machine

作　　者：周寅 桂顺 马作浩 张成俊 左小艳 ZHOU Yin;GUI Shun;MA Zuohao;ZHANG Chengjun;ZUO Xiaoyan(School of Mechanical&Automation,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan,Hubei 430200,China;Hubei Digital Textile Equipment Key Laboratory,Wuhan,Hubei 430200,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学机械工程与自动化学院,湖北武汉430200 [2]湖北省数字化纺织装备重点实验室,湖北武汉430200

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2024年第8期74-80,共7页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(51875414);武汉市知识创新专项项目(2023010201010115);武汉市应用基础前沿项目(2022013988065209)。

摘　　要：针对使用模板机进行服装生产依赖聚氯乙烯(PVC)材质服装模板,不适用于小批量定制服装生产的问题,提出应用于模板机的万向球组代替缝纫模板的通用缝制方法,通过织物与万向球之间的相对滑动实现待缝纫布料的固定,减小自动缝制对模板的依赖,适用于各种类型服装的定制生产。为研究织物在万向球挤压下的自动缝纫性能,选择20种不同材料参数与编织工艺的织物进行拉压性能测试,建立缝纫机针穿刺织物缝纫力模型,通过理论分析与实验验证得到满足缝纫要求的织物的压缩率与织物纤维体积含量的关系式,为不同布料进行模板缝纫时的万向球挤压深度提供参考。Aiming at the problem that the use of template sewing machine for garment production relies on PVC material garment templates,which is not applicable to the production of small-lot customized garments,a sewing method was proposed to replace the sewing template with a universal ball transfer set applied to the template sewing machine,which realizes the fixation of the fabric to be sewn by the relative sliding between the fabric and the universal ball transfers,and reduces the dependence of automatic sewing on the templates,which is suitable for the customized production of various types of garments.In order to study the automatic sewing performance of fabrics under the extrusion of universal ball,20 kinds of fabrics with different material parameters and knitting processes were selected for tensile and compression performance testing,the relationship between the parameters was analyzed,and the sewing force model of sewing machine needle piercing fabric was established,and the relationship between fabric compression rate and fabric fiber volume content was obtained through theoretical analysis and experimental verification to meet the sewing requirements,which can provide a reference to the depth of universal ball transfer extrusion for template sewing on different fabrics.

关 键 词：服装缝纫 模板机 万向球 织物压缩 

分 类 号：TS941.5[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] TH122[机械工程—机械设计及理论]