面料性能对A字裙坐姿起皱形态的影响  

The influence of fabric properties on the wrinkling pattern of A-line skirts in sitting position

作　　者：陈颖颖 陈佳琪 刘成霞[1,2] CHEN Yingying;CHEN Jiaqi;LIU Chengxia(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zhejiang Provincial Engineering Laboratory of Fashion Digital Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学服装数字化技术浙江省工程实验室,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第9期103-109,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(51405446)。

摘　　要：着装褶皱对服装外观有重要影响,常见的褶皱评价指标及传统的二维图像处理技术无法准确、全面反映三维起褶状态。因此,文章利用三维扫描技术对坐姿下A字裙形成的褶皱从褶皱区域、褶皱类型、褶皱大小和褶皱尖锐度四方面建立了一系列新指标,运用单因素方差分析比较了不同种类面料间的褶皱形态差异,并探究了面料性能与褶皱形态指标之间的相关性。研究结果表明,不同面料成分的A字裙在坐姿下形成的褶皱形态各异,其中棉类与其他面料之间各方面差异最为明显。此外,经密、抗弯刚度、褶皱回复性等面料性能对褶皱形态各指标有着不同程度的影响。研究结果可为面料选择及服装三维仿真提供参考。Wearing smoothness is one of the key factors affecting the appearance of clothing.The smooth appearance of clothing can not only show the texture and grade of clothing,but also improve the overall image and temperament of the wearer.The objective test and evaluation of smoothness is very important to the optimization of clothing design and the rational selection of materials,so it has been the focus of research in the field of textile testing.At present,the research of smoothness mainly focuses on the evaluation of flatness after washing and sewing,and pays little attention to the wrinkling of clothing during daily wearing.However,the wearing smoothness is more important than other kinds of smoothness in a sense,as the wrinkling of the dress directly affects the appearance of the clothing while the clothing can be worn after ironing,and the flattening effect of the stitches can also be improved by improving the equipment and the skills of the sewing personnel.In addition,in the analysis of the factors affecting the smoothness of the fabric,most of the studies focus on the influence of core wire types and spinning methods on the smoothness of fabrics,whereas there is a lack of in-depth research on the relationship between the fabric properties and the wrinkle patterns of clothing.As a typical representative of professional bottoms,the A-line skirt has extremely high requirements for appearance smoothness and aesthetics due to the wearing occasion,but due to its well-fitting design,it is easy to form folds during activities.In view of the practical problems faced in the wearing process,this paper takes the A-line skirt as the research object.Due to the three-dimensional spatial distribution of clothing wrinkles,it is difficult to reproduce its true shape as the conventional two-dimensional image processing technology does not contain spatial information,while the three-dimensional laser scanning technology can quickly and accurately obtain the three-dimensional coordinates of the surface of the measured object,so a

关 键 词：A字裙 面料性能 褶皱形态 三维扫描 单因素方差分析 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]