越文化视阈下余姚土布制作技艺研究  

Research on the production technique of Yuyao traditional homespun from the perspective of Yue culture

作　　者：张励清 鲁佳亮[1,2] 苏淼[1,2] 潘爱芬 王迪佳 ZHANG Liqing;LU Jialiang;SU Miao;PAN Aifen;WANG Dijia(College of Textiles Science and Engineering(International Institute of Silk),Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Shengzhou Innovation Research Institute,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Shaoxing 312400,China;Yuyao TraditionalHomespun Hall,Ningbo 315476,China;Cultural Station of Xiaocao’e Town,Ningbo 315476,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学嵊州创新研究院有限公司,浙江绍兴312400 [3]浙江省余姚市余姚土布展示馆,宁波315476 [4]浙江省余姚市小曹娥镇文化站,宁波315476

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第9期110-119,共10页Journal of Silk

基　　金：浙江省省级社会实践一流课程项目(浙教办函〔2022〕352号)。

摘　　要：余姚土布以其精巧的制作技艺与独特的艺术风格在江浙纺织史中占有重要地位,是具有浓郁地域文化意蕴的财富。文章从文化的视角入手,以现存的余姚土布及机具为研究对象,通过文献资料研究、田野实地调研、实例阐述、图文分析等手段解读余姚土布制作技术与艺术特征:首先提出越地优越的种植条件、浓郁的商业气氛与质朴顽强的越人性格铸就了余姚土布的辉煌历史;接着分析了越文化“致用”“贯通”的思想孕育出余姚土布制作机具尚实致用而与时俱进、制作工序讲求分工合作的特性;最后解析了余姚土布“求真务实、求新趋变”的纹样特征,合“礼”适“度”的用色法则,以及崇神重情的土布礼俗,呈现了越地独有的人文气息。Yuyao traditional homespun is a folk textile which uses local cotton as the main raw material and traditional spinning machines for spinning and weaving.It is a folk textile miracle in China’s textile handicrafts with very strong local flavor.In 2011,the production technique of Yuyao traditional homespun was included in the national intangible cultural heritage protection list.The values of Yue culture have always contained the duality of agricultural civilization and business culture.The environment with abundant soil and mountains nurtures the strength of the people of Yue,while the ocean they face injects a gentle aura into them.Yuyao traditional homespun is a typical product of Yue people’s life,so its development and sedimentation cannot be separated from the influence of the Yue region.Its production techniques and artistic aesthetics also reveal the strong Yue culture,and are a historical witness to the survival of traditional Yue culture.This article,from the perspective of Yue culture theory,organized ancient books such as local chronicles,visited the national level inheritor Wang Guifeng,and combined the collected tools for making homespun with existing materials of Yuyao homespun,summarizing the development history of Yuyao traditional homespun.Subsequently,the article documented and organized the production process and tools of Yuyao traditional homespun,and analyzed the artistic characteristics of Yuyao homespun from the aspects of pattern,color,and folk customs.Three important conclusions are drawn.Firstly,the geographical environment suitable for cotton cultivation in Yuyao has incubated the local cotton textile industry,and the strong business atmosphere has nurtured the development of the homespun economy.The simple and tenacious character of the Yue people has made the homespun industry resist the invasion of foreign cloth indomitably.Secondly,the concept of“practicality”in Yue culture has given birth to the characteristic of using local materials and multiple tools for making Yuyao trad

关 键 词：土布 余姚 越文化 手工棉纺织 技艺 艺术特征 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]