潮汕抽纱手帕的外销及其装饰艺术  

Export of Drawn Work Handkerchiefs and Their Decorative Arts in the Chaoshan Area

作　　者：张宽 Zhang Kuan

机构地区：[1]中国艺术研究院

出　　处：《艺术设计研究》2024年第4期40-47,共8页Art & Design Research

摘　　要：潮汕抽纱技艺由西方传教士在清末传入,此后潮汕地区成为20世纪国内最大的抽纱外销地区,担负起了为国家赚取外汇的重任,其蓬勃发展具有内外两方面的因素。潮汕抽纱手帕是潮汕抽纱品的代表品种,相比其他抽纱品种,它工种最为复杂,图案最为典雅繁缛,自近代至1953年占据潮汕抽纱品外销总额的第一位,具有明显的阶段性特征。但潮汕抽纱手帕工艺创新趋向专门化和成熟化建立在20世纪下半叶潮汕抽纱业生产组织系统化的基础上,与抽纱手帕外销繁荣的阶段形成差序格局。潮汕抽纱的保护单位之一潮州抽纱公司,保存了大量有关抽纱手帕发展情况和工艺的文献资料以及抽纱纹样档案和精美绝伦的抽纱实物。研究主要依据这些资料进行分析,从工艺美术角度解读潮汕抽纱手帕的图案、材质和工种技法特征,以期还原潮汕抽纱手帕的装饰艺术价值。The craft of drawn work was introduced to the Chaoshan area by Western missionaries at the end of the Qing Dynasty.Thereafter,this area became the largest exporter of drawn work in China during the 20th century,playing a significant role in earning foreign exchange for the country.The robust development of this craft was influenced by both domestic and international factors.The drawn work handkerchief is a quintessential product in Chaoshan,distinguished by its complex stitches and elegantly intricate patterns.It dominated the export volumes of Chaoshan-drawn work products from the modern era up to 1953,exhibiting characteristics across these phases.However,innovation in the craft of Chaoshan-drawn work handkerchiefs trended towards specialization and maturation based on the systematic organization of production within the drawn work industry in the latter half of the 20th century.This created a staggered pattern of prosperity from the export phases of drawn work handkerchiefs.The Chaozhou Drawn Work Company,one of the conservation units of this craft,has preserved a wealth of documentation on the development and techniques of drawn work handkerchiefs,archives of drawn work patterns,and exquisitely unique drawn work products.Research primarily relies on these materials for analysis,including the patterns,types of raw materials,and characteristics of drawn work techniques from an arts and crafts perspective,aiming to emphasize the decorative artistic value of Chaoshan-drawn work handkerchiefs.

关 键 词：潮汕抽纱手帕 抽纱传入 外销阶段性 图案 工种 

分 类 号：J523[艺术—艺术设计]