汉代刘贺服饰形象整体设计研究——《海昏侯马蹄金、麟趾金·前世传奇》  

Overall Design of Liu He's Clothing Image in the Han Dynasty:The Legend of Horseshoe Gold and Kylin-toe Gold Unearthed from the Tomb of Haihun Marquis

作　　者：张婷 ZHANG Ting(Beijing Yiting Wanying Culture Media Co.,Ltd.,Beijing 100000,China)

机构地区：[1]北京艺婷万影文化传媒有限公司,北京100000

出　　处：《工业工程设计》2024年第4期25-32,共8页INDUSTRIAL&ENGINEERING DESIGN

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学项目(20BG119)。

摘　　要：《海昏侯马蹄金、麟趾金·前世今生》作为中央广播电视总台大型文博探索节目《国家宝藏》第四季第三期,走进江西省博物馆板块的重要内容之一,讲述了西汉元康四年刘贺就任海昏侯后的一段故事。因此,如何根据剧中人物身份、时间设定及礼仪要求,还原刘贺的服饰风貌,成为节目创作中的一个重要议题。刘贺的服饰形象设计受其诸侯王身份地位、西汉早中期楚风服饰风尚以及剧中立春礼仪等综合因素的影响。参照汉代舆服制度和文献资料,对应墓葬陶俑、画卷等图像遗存,结合汉墓出土的服饰实物,对刘贺的服饰形制、面料、色彩、纹样等方面进行了具体考据。刘贺服装形制主要为曲裾深衣、禅衣;服装面料为罗、锦以及素纱等高级丝质品类;纹样为菱纹罗纹样与夔龙纹锦;首服远游冠,足踏歧头履等。通过本次设计研究,希冀还原以刘贺为代表的西汉贵族男子服饰风貌,传承中华民族优秀传统服饰文化的同时,也为后续节目人物服饰形象设计提供参考。The Legend of Horseshoe Gold and Kylin-toe Gold Unearthed from the Tomb of Haihun Marquis is one of the important contents of the third episode of the fourth season of the large-scale cultural and museum exploration program National Treasure produced by China Central Radio and Television Station regarding the Jiangxi Provincial Museum and tells a story after Liu He is awarded the Marquis of Haihun in the fourth year of Yuankang Period in the Western Han Dynasty.Therefore,how to restore Liu He's clothing style according to the identity of the characters in the play,the time setting and the requirements of etiquette has become an important issue in the creation of the program.The design of Liu He's clothing image is influenced by a combination of factors such as his status as a marquis,the Chu-style clothing fashion in the early and middle Western Han Dynasty,and the etiquette of Spring Begins in the play.Referring to the chariot and clothing system and literature in the Han Dynasty,based on the image remains such as tomb pottery figurines and scrolls and combined with the actual clothing unearthed from the tombs of the Han Dynasty,Liu He's clothing style,fabric,color,pattern and other aspects are specifically examined.The clothing styles of Liu He are mainly curved-hem robes and Buddhist robes.The fabrics are high-grade silk products such as porous silk,brocade and plain yarn.The patterns are diamond patterns and Kuilong patterns.The headwear is traveling hat,and the shoes are cocked-tip boots.Through this design research,it is expected to restore the clothing style of noble men represented by Liu He in the Western Han Dynasty,inherit the excellent traditional clothing culture of the Chinese nation,and provide reference for the design of subsequent character clothing images in the program.

关 键 词：刘贺 汉代 曲裾深衣 禅衣 远游冠 歧头履 

分 类 号：J523[艺术—艺术设计]