马面裙的定义与结构特征来源探析  

Analysis of the Definition and Structural Feature Source of the Horse-Face Skirt

作　　者：杨子田[1] 雷梦洁 王诗琪 YANG Zitian;LEI Mengjie;WANG Shiqi(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051

出　　处：《服装学报》2024年第4期290-295,347,共7页Journal of Clothing Research

摘　　要：马面裙是中国传统服饰中较为经典的款式之一。为了从结构特征的角度解决马面裙来源不明晰、定义冗杂的问题,采用词频分析法整理归纳马面裙的3个结构特征,同时通过比例分析法对宋代褶裥裙及二片式旋裙的形制进行分析,并结合宋代相关裙型形制特点,重新定义马面裙的形制特征。研究表明,马面裙源于宋代,其形制为前后有马面状搭叠裙门的二片式结构,侧面有多个褶裥的中式裙装。The horse-face skirt was one of the classic styles of traditional Chinese clothing.In order to solve the problem of unclear sources and redundant definitions of horse-face skirt from the perspective of structural characteristics,three structural characteristics of horse-face skirt were summarized from the definition of horse-face skirt by scholas by word frequency analysis.Then a proportional analysis method was used to analyze the form of Song Dynasty pleated skirts and two-piece rotating skirts.Combined with the characteristic form of related skirts in Song Dynasty,the st ructural features of the horse-faced skirt were redefined.The study shows that the horse-face skirt originated in Song Dynasty,with a two-piece structure featuring horse-face shaped overlapping front and back skirt panels,as well as multiple pleats on the side.

关 键 词：马面裙 结构特点 宋代 褶裥裙 二片式旋裙 

分 类 号：TS941.71[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]