明代男子直摆的形制与结构  

Shape and Structure of the Men s Straight Pendulum in Ming Dynasty

作　　者：张秋莹 牛犁 ZHANG Qiuying;NIU Li(School of Digita Technology and Innovation Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学数字科技与创意设计学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《服装学报》2024年第4期316-323,共8页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：国家社会科学基金艺术学青年项目(20CG183)。

摘　　要：直摆是明代男子便服的重要品类,其“摆”的结构呈现出多样性与独特性,并易与其他便服混淆。为了明晰直摆便服形制与结构,采用三重证据法,以20件墓葬出土文物与传世实物为样本,综合文献与图像史料进行互证分析,进而考证明代直摆的形制与结构,以及直摆作为便服主要的服用特征。研究发现,明代男子直摆延续了宋元袍服的通身形态与侧褶呈现形式,在结构演化上表现为捏褶与护领搭配使用的领部形态,愈趋宽博的琵琶袖型,及出摆与褶摆共存的侧摆构造,以此印证明代直摆的形态结构是传统服饰功用属性的表达和惜物俭用思想的外化。The straight pendulum is an important category of mens casual wear in Ming Dynasty.Its"pendulum"structure presents diversity and uniqueness,which can be easily confused with other casual wear.In order to clarify the shape and structure of the straight pendulum casual wear,the triple-evidence method was used to analyze the 20 tombs unearthed and handed down as samples.Comprehensive literature and historical image materials were used for mutual evidence analysis,and then the shape and structure of the straight pendulum in Ming Dynasty and the main characteristics of the straight pendulum as a casual wear were verified.The study found that the straight pendulum in Ming Dynasty continued the full-body shape and side pleat presentation form of the Song and Yuan gowns.In terms of structural evolution,it was manifested as the staggered use of collar pleats and guard collars,increasingly broad pipa sleeve,and the side pendulum structure of the coexistence of pendulum and pleat pendulum.This confirms that the morphologi cal structure of the straight pendulum in Ming Dynasty reflects the functional attributes of traditional costumes and embodies the concept of thrift.

关 键 词：明代 直摆 便服 服装形制 结构分析 

分 类 号：TS941.1[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]