清代杨柳青年画仕女服饰溯源与构建规律分析  

Analysis of the Sources and Construction Patterns of Ladies'Costume in Yangliuqings New Year Pictures from Qing Dynasty

作　　者：王雪婷 谢朝[1] WANG Xueting;XIE Zhao(School of Literature,Nankai University,Tianjin 300071,China)

机构地区：[1]南开大学文学院,天津300071

出　　处：《服装学报》2024年第4期324-331,共8页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：天津市艺术科学规划项目(E20014);国家留学基金委国别和区域人才支持计划项目。

摘　　要：为探索清代杨柳青年画中的仕女服饰来源与构建规律,以清代杨柳青年画中的仕女服饰为研究对象,选取研究样本69例,通过对图像资料的研究,溯源辨析服饰形制,归类统计服饰搭配方式,并以袖宽与绲边宽度为例探析清代杨柳青年画的仕女服饰构建特征与风格流变现象。研究认为,清代杨柳青年画的仕女服饰将清代女性常服、古装与传统戏曲服装混用搭配,且年画艺人基于构建逻辑将这些超越时代与现实意义的服饰元素组合成“理想仕女原型”,给人尽善尽美的视觉感受,呼应集体审美共识。To explore the sources and construction pattems of the female costumes,this paper took the costumes in Yangliuqings New Year pictures of ladies from the Qing Dynasty as the research object.It selects 69 sampled for research,tracing the origins and analyzing the shapes and forms of the costumes.The study categorized and calculated the ways of costume matching through the study of image data.It analyzed the characteristics of costume construction and style changes of Yangliuqings New Year pictures,using sleeve width and piping width as examples.The research holds that the costumes of Yangliuqing's New Year pictures of ladies in Qing Dynasty mix and match female ordinary clothes,ancient clothes and traditional opera clothes.Based on the intentional construction logic,the artists combine these clothing elements that transcend the times and have practical significance into an"ideal archetype of beautiful women"to convey a perfect visual feeling and echo the universal collective aesthetic consensus.

关 键 词：杨柳青年画 仕女服饰 服饰形制 服饰搭配方式 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] J218.3[艺术—美术]