闪色效果针织面料工艺设计与应用  

Technological Design and Application of Knitted Fabrics with Flicker Color effect

作　　者：陈红娟[1] Chen Hongjuan(School of Fashio,Suzhou Art&Design Technology Institute,Suzhou,Jiangsu 215104,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州工艺美术职业技术学院服装设计学院,江苏苏州215104

出　　处：《针织工业》2024年第8期22-26,共5页Knitting Industries

基　　金：2021江苏省高校“青蓝工程”优秀教学团队阶段性成果。

摘　　要：在进行纬编横向夹色编织的基础上,通过分析并利用双反面组织、变线圈织物、集圈组织线圈结构的特征,设计一系列具有闪色提花效果针织织物。分析3种针织组织的三维立体结构各部分空间遮盖的特点,结合织物闪色形成的原理,总结不同组织闪色规律。根据图案设计需求,采用不同显色区域、不同组织结构比例分配进行编织,可以形成图案形态灵活、不同角度色彩变化的闪色织物效果。探讨基于不同组织结构的闪色针织面料设计案例,分析其织物风格特点,同时给出在针织服装上应用的建议。On the basis of kniting horizontal stripe fabrics,series of jacquard appearance knitted fabrics with flicker color effect are designed by analyzing and applying characteristics of purl stitch,variable loop length stitch and tuck stitch.The characteristics of each part of three dimensional loop covering each other are analyzed for the above three kinds of stitches.The paper summarizes the rule of different patterned knitted fabrics with flicker color effect.The knitted fabrics with flicker color effect are presented with flexible patterns and changing colors from different angles by different proportion distribution of stitches being knitted with different color rendering areas according to pattern requirements.The paper discusses the case of knited fabrics with flicker color effect design based on different structures,and analyzes the style characteristics.At the same time,some suggestions on the application in knitted garment are given.

关 键 词：闪色 针织织物 夹色编织 双反面组织 变线圈织物 集圈组织 工艺设计 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]