织物结构对CoolMax■针织面料服用性能影响  

Effect of Fabric Structure on the Wearability Property of CoolMax■ Knitted Fabrics

作　　者：潘婷 王建萍[1,2,3] 汪雪乔[1,2] 杨雨卓 Pan Ting;Wang Janping;Wang Xueqiao;Yang Yuzhuo(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Shanghai International College of Design&Innovation,Tongji University,Shanghai 200092,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海200051 [3]同济大学上海国际设计创新研究院,上海200092

出　　处：《针织工业》2024年第8期27-30,共4页Knitting Industries

基　　金：国家重点研发计划“科技冬奥”重点项目(2019YFF0302100);上海市“科技创新行动计划”“一带一路”国际合作项目(21130750100)。

摘　　要：为进一步探究织物结构对CoolMax■针织面料服用性能的影响,以CoolMax■纱线和Dryarn■包覆氨纶纱线为原料,选择3种组织结构(纬平针组织、1+2假罗纹组织和分叉Ⅰ组织)在圣东尼SM8-TOP2型单面无缝内衣机上织造试样。对织物透气性、导湿性、保暖性、透湿性和拉伸回复性进行测试,再分析比较3种组织结构性能差异,最后采用灰色近优评价法综合评价其服用性能。结果表明:3种组织结构透气性差异不大,均具有良好的导湿性和拉伸回复性,保持CoolMax■纤维原本拥有的性能;分叉Ⅰ组织具有较好保暖性;纬平针组织具有较好透湿性;分叉Ⅰ组织的综合服用性能最好。研究结果可为CoolMax■冬季用运动内衣的组织分区设计提供一定参考。In order to further investigate the influence of fabric structure on the wearing properties of CoolMax■knitted fabrics,CoolMax■(All Season series)yam and Dryarn■covered spandex yan were used as raw materials and three structures(weft flat knitted structure,I+2 false rib structure and split Ⅰ structure)are selected for kniting on a SANTONI SM8-TOP2 single-sided seamless underwear machine.The breathability,moisture conductivity,warmth retention,moisture permeability and tensile recovery of the fabrics were tested,and then the performance differences among the three patterns were analyzed and compared.Finally,the wearability property was evaluated by using the grey near-optimal method.The results show that the air permeability of the three structures is not very different from each other,and all of them have good moisture conductivity and tensile regeneration,maintaining the original properties of CoolMax■ fibers.The bifurcated Ⅰ structure has beter warmth retention,weft flat knited structure has better moisture permeability and the bifurcated Ⅰ structure has the best overall performance.The results of the study can provide some reference value for the design of the structure partion of CoolMax■ winter sports underwear.

关 键 词：织物结构 CoolMax■ 无缝针织 灰色近优评价法 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]