局部折叠在裁剪针织服装纸样中的应用  

Application of Partial Folding in the Pattern Design of Cutting Process for Knitted Garments

作　　者：何玉婷 邵新艳[1,2] He Yuting;Shao Xinyan(School of Fashion,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;Sports Fashion Innovation Acamdey,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029 [2]北京服装学院运动时尚创新研究院,北京100029

出　　处：《针织工业》2024年第8期60-64,共5页Knitting Industries

基　　金：北京市社会科学基金项目青年项目(18YTC026);市属高校分类发展——北京服装学院服装学"新兴交叉学科平台建设项目(110000247000003073871)。

摘　　要：裁剪针织服装由于面料特性呈现出良好的伸缩性与悬垂性,能与多种结构造型手法结合形成创意服装造型。文章以纸样设计为基础,探究局部折叠设计在裁剪针织服装造型中的表现形式,通过典型案例与纸样设计研究,总结出裁剪针织服装局部折叠造型方法有切展叠褶法、部分重叠法、交错折叠法。该研究丰富了裁剪针织服装纸样设计方法,为针织服装造型设计提供了理论基础与技术支持。Due to the fabric characteristics,kntted Garment with cutting process has good elasticity and drapability,so it is suitable for a variety of modeling techniques.Based on pattern design,this article explores the modeling method of partial folding design in the cutting process for knitted garments.Through the analysis of actual cases and corresponding patterns,it is concluded that the folding method of knitted garments with cutting process includes cut-and-fold method,partial fold method and cross-fold method.This research enriches the pattern design method of knitted garments with cutting process,and provides theoretical basis and technical support for the design of knitted garments.

关 键 词：裁剪针织服装 纸样设计 局部折叠设计 服装造型方法 

分 类 号：TS941.63[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]