汉晋服妖叙事中的社会风俗变迁  

Social Customs Changes in the Narratives of Clothing Omens from the Han to Jin Dynasties

作　　者：胡祥琴[1] Hu Xiangqin

机构地区：[1]北方民族大学中华民族共同体学院历史系

出　　处：《四川师范大学学报（社会科学版）》2024年第5期157-164,206,207,共10页Journal of Sichuan Normal University(Social Sciences Edition)

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究规划基金项目“正史《五行志》怪异书写研究”(20YJA770004)的阶段性成果。

摘　　要：从《汉书》、《后汉书》到《晋书》,其《五行志》所述服妖条下的内容表现出明显的不同:《汉书》所载均与重大的政治事件有关,其中的关键人物皆因服饰的错穿、误穿,影响了政治生涯并终致失败;《后汉书》所载服妖,表现出某些新现象,透视出服饰妆容方面的新变化,出现某些传统服饰未见的新元素,如木屐的流行,胡物、奇装的出现等;《晋书》所载服妖传递出其时服饰不仅种类繁杂,而且出现尚新、求美以及追求松弛自由的个性做派。这些新变化既是社会变迁在意识形态和文化心理上的表现,也是曾经占据统治地位的两汉经学逐渐式微的反映,同时也说明一种新的观念体系正在形成。汉晋三部正史《五行志》服妖叙事表明,作为维持社会秩序工具之一的服妖,本质上是以批判社会上异质服饰为目的,客观上却成为社会风俗变迁的晴雨表。In the Chapters“On the Five Elements”in the History of the Han Dynasty,the History of the Later Han Dynasty,and the History of the Jin Dynasty,the content under the entries of clothing omens shows significant differences.The History of the Han Dynasty mainly relate to major political events,where key figures’political careers were affected and ultimately failed due to incorrect or inappropriate attire.The History of the Later Han Dynasty displays new phenomena,reflecting changes in clothing and makeup,with new elements not seen in traditional attire,such as the popularity of wooden clogs and the appearance of exotic and peculiar clothing.The History of the Jin Dynasty conveys that the clothing of the time was not only diverse but also exhibited a trend towards novelty,beauty,and a pursuit of relaxed and free personal styles.These new changes reflect social transformations in ideology and cultural psychology,indicating the gradual decline of the Confucian classics that once dominated during the Han dynasty,and the formation of a new conceptual system.The narratives of clothing omens in the Chapters“On the Five Elements”in the three offical history from the Han to Jin dynasties show that,as a tool for maintaining social order,clothing omens were essentially aimed at criticizing heterogeneous clothing in society but objectively became a barometer of social customs changes.

关 键 词：汉晋《五行志》 服妖叙事 社会风俗变迁 

分 类 号：K23[历史地理—历史学] TS941.12[历史地理—中国史]