1929年服制影响下《良友》画报旗袍变迁研究  

A Study of Changes in Cheongsam of Young Companion Pictorial under the Influence of the 1929 Regulations on the Administration of Customs

作　　者：蒋雯欣 JIANG Wenxin(Sichuan Fine Arts Institute,,401331 Chongqing)

机构地区：[1]四川美术学院,重庆401331

出　　处：《设计艺术研究》2024年第4期155-160,共6页Design Research

基　　金：2024年重庆市研究生科研创新项目(CYS240641)。

摘　　要：1929年《服制条例》以改良旗袍为国服。目前学术界对旗袍款式研究可谓汗牛充栋,但尚未将《服制条例》中旗袍图示与民国畅销时尚刊物联系,以此分析旗袍款式变迁受政令的影响。为探究1929年《服制条例》影响下《良友》画报中女性旗袍图像的变化,对《良友》画报中女性旗袍图像进行量化分析,进而得出旗袍形制在1929年《服制条例》颁布后从马甲旗袍、倒大袖旗袍逐渐演变为改良旗袍,并在20世纪30年代成为民国女性主流服饰。另外随着《服制条例》规定改良旗袍为女公务员制服,《良友》画报在20世纪30年代倾向以高学识、公职女性为报道对象,反映民国女性社会职业化趋势。The 1929 Regulations on the Administration of Customs made the modified cheongsam the national dress.At present,academic research on cheongsam styles seems to have been very extensive.But there is no study on the link between the illustrations of cheongsams in the Regulations on the Administration of Customs and the best-selling fashion publications of the Republic of China.This paper aims to investigate the changes in cheongsam styles affected by the governmental decrees through exploring the changes in the images of cheongsams in the Young Companion Pictorial under the influence of the 1929 Regulations on the Administration of Customs.The quantitative analysis of the images of cheongsams in Young Companion Pictorial leads to the conclusion that the cheongsam form gradually evolved from the waistcoat cheongsam and the inverted large-sleeved cheongsam to the modified cheongsam after the promulgation of the 1929 Regulations on the Administration of Customs,and became the mainstream clothing for women in the Republic of China in the 1930s.In addition,with the Regulations on the Administration of Customs stipulating the modified cheongsam as the uniform for female civil servants,Young Companion Pictorial in the 1930s tended to report on highly educated,public-service women,reflecting the trend of professionalism of women in the Republic of China.

关 键 词：《良友》画报 1929年《服制条例》 改良旗袍 

分 类 号：J5[艺术—艺术设计]