烟酰胺熊果苷乳液的制作及其美白作用研究  

Preparation of nicotinamide arbutin emulsion and its whitening effect

作　　者：郑宇强 王婷婷 王李群 ZHENG Yu-qiang;WANG Ting-ting;WANG Li-qun(Ningbo Beltonway Biomedicine Co.,Ltd.,Ningbo,Zhejiang 315000,China)

机构地区：[1]宁波伯通伟达生物医药有限公司,浙江宁波315000

出　　处：《日用化学品科学》2024年第9期35-40,68,共7页Detergent & Cosmetics

摘　　要：通过黑素细胞合成抑制实验确定了烟酰胺、熊果苷较佳美白效果复配比并制成烟酰胺熊果苷乳液,并采用皮肤光泽度实验、黑色素MI实验、皮肤亮度L*值实验、皮肤颜色a*、b*值实验、皮肤白度ITA°值实验、光毒评测实验研究其提亮美白作用。结果表明,烟酰胺和熊果苷体积分数比为12∶2时配方美白效果最佳,此条件下对黑素细胞合成的抑制率为65.12%。使用测试产品14天,受试者的皮肤光泽度增加43.01%,黑色素MI差值减少16.49%,皮肤亮度L*值差值增加3%,皮肤颜色a*值差值减少7.2%,皮肤颜色b*值差值减少2.73%,ITA°差值增加13.77%。使用测试产品28天,受试者的皮肤光泽度增加42.52%,黑色素MI差值减少18.52%,皮肤亮度L*值差值增加3.85%,皮肤颜色a*值差值减少11.33%,ITA°差值增加14.80%。高活性物浓度烟酰胺熊果苷乳液对人体皮肤具有明显的美白提亮功效,且不产生光毒刺激。The optimal whitening effect of nicotinamide and arbutin was determined by the inhibition test of melanocyte synthesis and nicotinamide arbutin emulsion was prepared.Its brightening and whitening effect was studied by the skin gloss test,melanin MI test,skin brightness L* value test,skin color a*,b* value test,skin whiteness ITA° value test and phototoxicity test.The results showed that the formula had the best whitening effect when the volume fraction ratio of niacinamide to arbutin was 12∶2,and the inhibition rate of melanocyte synthesis was 65.12% under this condition.After using the test product for 14 days,the subjects' skin glossiness increased by 43.01%,the melanin MI difference decreased by 16.49%,the skin brightness L* difference increased by 3%,the skin color a* difference decreased by 7.2%,the skin color b* difference decreased by 2.73%,and the ITA° difference increased by 13.77%.After using the test product for 28 days,the subjects' skin glossiness increased by 42.52%,melanin MI difference decreased by 18.52%,skin brightness L* difference increased by 3.85%,skin color a* difference decreased by 11.33%,and ITA° difference increased by 14.80%.Nicotinamide arbutin emulsion with high concentration of active substance has obvious whitening and brightening effect on human skin.

关 键 词：烟酰胺 熊果苷 乳液 美白 提亮 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]