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作 者:刘静 史丽敏[1] 任锦卉 LIU Jing;SHI Limin;REN Jinhui(School of Fashion Art and Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)
机构地区:[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029
出 处:《北京服装学院学报(自然科学版)》2024年第3期23-31,共9页Journal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology:Natural Science Edition
基 金:北京市教育委员会科学研究计划项目(项目编号:KM202210012001,项目名称:60~69岁北京女性服装的结构与功能研究)。
摘 要:为筛选出更适合老年女性春秋T恤的面料,本文研究了仿梭织针织面料的综合服用性能。对仿梭织针织面料的刚柔性、悬垂性、折痕回复性、抗起毛起球性、拉伸弹性、透气性、透湿性、保温性和触感9项性能进行测试。基于实验结果,采用灰色关联度分析法,建立灰色关联度模型,基于老年女性的特殊身体特征及穿着需求,对面料各项性能要求侧重有所不同,从而引入专家评分法确定各项性能指标的权重,并通过关联度秩位对7种仿梭织针织面料进行综合性能评价。结果表明:灰色关联度分析法能够较好地评价出7种仿梭织针织面料的综合性能,3#(棉/涤纶:75%/25%)和7#(棉/涤纶:70%/30%)织物的关联度秩位排序靠前,面料综合性能优良,更适合用于老年女性春秋T恤。To study the comprehensive performance of imitation woven knitted fabrics and select those most suitable for elderly women's spring and autumn T-shirts,nine performance tests were conducted on seven types of imitation woven knitted fabrics,including rigid-flexibility,drape,crease recovery,anti-pilling tendency,tensile elasticity,breathability,moisture permeability,heat retention,and tactile sensation.Based on the experimental results,a grey correlation degree analysis method was employed to establish a grey correlation degree model.Considering the physical characteristics and wearing needs of elderly women,different emphasis was placed on the performance requirements of the fabric.The expert scoring method was introduced to determine the weights of various performance indicators,and the comprehensive performance evaluation of woven knitted fabrics was conducted by ranking the correlation degrees.The results show that the grey correlation analysis method can better evaluate the comprehensive performance of seven types of imitation woven knitted fabrics.Fabrics 3#(Cotton/Polyester:75%/25%)and 7#(Cotton/Polyester:70%/30%)ranked higher in terms of correlation degree,indicating good comprehensive performance and better suitability for elderly women's spring and autumn T-shirts.
关 键 词:仿梭织针织面料 性能测试 灰色关联度分析 综合评价
分 类 号:TS187[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]
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