基于女性主义视角下民国月份牌中西洋服饰研究  

Research on the Western Clothing in the Republic of China Calendar Based on the Female Perspective

作　　者：李惠 陈曼玲 李斌 LI Hui;CHEN Manling;LI Bin(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan,Hubei 430073,China;Hubei Intangible Culture Research Center,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan,Hubei 430073,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,湖北武汉430073 [2]湖北省非物质文化研究中心(武汉纺织大学),湖北武汉430073

出　　处：《浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报》2024年第3期27-34,共8页Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology

基　　金：国家社科艺术学项目(2020BG03720)。

摘　　要：针对民国时期女性西洋服饰的种类、特征及配伍问题,文章基于女性视角,应用图像学、历史文献研究方法对民国月份牌广告中的西洋服饰进行分析,得到西洋服饰促进女装现代化及妇女思想解放的结论。研究表明:在西方思潮与女性主义的影响下,民国女性服装逐渐引入西洋服饰品类并出现在月份牌广告之中,女性服饰呈现出多样化、个性化与现代化的发展趋势。伴随着女性思想的进一步解放,月份牌中的洋装女郎通过西洋服饰及生活方式展现出她们追求男女平等、渴望独立自主的心理特征,完成了对近代女性主义的表达与强化。近代女性主义使得月份牌中新女性形象愈加清晰真实,同样月份牌广告也进一步促进了女性主义在中国的发展与传播。Aiming at the types,characteristics and compatibility of women’s western clothing in the period of the Republic of China,this paper analyzes the western clothing in the advertisements in the Republic of China calendar based on the female perspective,applied graphics and the research methods of historical documents,and draws the conclusion that the western clothing promotes the modernization of women’s clothing and the liberation of women’s thought.The research shows that under the influence of western thought and feminism,women’s clothing in the Republic of China gradually introduced western clothing categories and appeared in calendar advertisements,and women’s clothing showed a development trend of diversification,individuation and modernization.Along with the further liberation of women’s thought,the dress girls in the calendars show their psychological characteristics of pursuing equality between men and women and longing for independence through western clothing and lifestyle,completing the expression and strengthening ofmodern feminism.Modern feminismmakes the image of new women in the calendar more clear and real,and the calendar advertisements also further promote the development and dissemination of feminism in China.

关 键 词：民国时期 月份牌广告 西洋服饰 女性主义 妇女解放 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]