藏族邦典的创新设计与生产工艺  

Innovative Design and Production Process of Bangdian

作　　者：陈伍彪 王勇 王佳丽[1] 方佳 余卫华 马德坤 CHEN Wubiao;WANG Yong;WANG Jiali;FANG Jia;YU Weihua;MA Dekun(Sichuan Silk Scientific Research Institute Co.,Ltd.,Chengdu 610031,China;Sichuan Provincial Silk Engineering Research Center,Chengdu 610031,China)

机构地区：[1]四川省丝绸科学研究院有限公司,成都610031 [2]四川省丝绸工程技术研究中心,成都610031

出　　处：《纺织科技进展》2024年第9期23-27,共5页Progress in Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：四川省科研院所科技成果转化项目(2023JDZH0014)。

摘　　要：藏族邦典用作围裙,是藏族女装的重要标志,兼备实用性与装饰性。基于邦典构图和织物特殊性,目前机织邦典均采用多臂有梭织机织造,再由手工将3条相同的彩条织物按要求拼接制作成邦典成品。该工艺存在生产周期长、设色数受限、效率低、成本高等问题。通过对邦典特种织物最适织物组织设计、原料配置、织前准备、织造及烫光后整理工艺的研究与优化,开发适用于无梭织造的高效低成本邦典制造工艺技术及其无拼接邦典新产品。结果表明,该技术可在保留传统邦典独特风格前提下,实现邦典特种织物的一次织造成型和一机多幅生产,大幅提高生产效率,降低制作成本。其产品无需进行手工拼接,更经济美观,经烫光整理完全符合传统邦典对色彩、构图以及织物质地紧密、结实耐用的外观风格和内在质量的要求。Bangdian is the Tibetan women's apron,which plays an important role in Tibetan women's dress.Bangdian has both decorative and practical functions.Based on the particularity fabric structure and color matching,the machine-made Bangdian is woven by multi-arm shuttle loom,and then the Bangdian finished products is hand-stitched by three pieces of the same color stripe fabric according to the requirements.This process has the problems of long production cycle,limited color number,low efficiency,high cost and so on.The optimum fabric structure design,the raw material selection,the preparation before weaving,the weaving and the luster finishing process of Bangdian special fabric were discussed.The high-efficiency and low-cost manufacturing process technology of shuttleless fabrics and the without hand-stitch of new Bangdian products were developed.The results indicate that the one-step weave forming process and the one-time weave multiple stripes can be obtained by using the technology while retaining the unique style of traditional Bangdian.The technology can greatly improve the production efficiency and reduce the production cost of Bangdian.The shuttleless Bangdian products are more economical and beautiful than the previous shuttle products.The products retain the appearance style of traditional Bangdian and meet the internal quality requirements.

关 键 词：邦典 无拼接 织造工艺 烫光整理 一机多幅 

分 类 号：TS105[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]