“破损艺术”在针织女装中的设计应用  

Application of the“Damage Art”in the Design of Knitted Women's Clothing

作　　者：罗英 张韬 LUO Ying;ZHANG Tao(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,武汉430073

出　　处：《纺织科技进展》2024年第9期38-44,共7页Progress in Textile Science & Technology

摘　　要：“破损艺术”作为服装的艺术表现手法之一,它所表达的是一种独特而个性的美,其作为一种服装表达的设计语言,可以满足消费者对于服装与自我表达相结合的一种精神诉求。通过分析“破损艺术”在针织服装中运用的代表案例,归纳“破损艺术”在针织服装中现有的设计手法,探讨在针织服装中的运用特征。将“破损艺术”在针织女装中进行运用实践,将抽针、褶裥、局部编织和提花等编织工艺运用在破损针织面料上,探究“破损艺术”在针织女装上的表现形式,并对未来针织服装的发展进行展望。研究表明,针织工艺决定了针织面料的破损形式;“破损艺术”使针织女装结构表达具有多样性;“破损艺术”增添了针织服装的艺术魅力。As one of the artistic expressions of clothing,“damage art”expresses a unique and individual beauty,and as a design language of clothing expression,it can also meet the spiritual appeal of consumers for the combination of clothing and self-expression.By analyzing the representative cases of the application of“damage art”in knitted garments,the application characteristics of“broken art”in knitted garments were discussed,the application of“broken art”in knitted women's clothing was practiced.The weaving processes such as needle drawing,pleating,partial weaving and jacquard were applied to damaged knitted fabrics,and the expression of“damaged art”in knitted women's clothing was explored,while the future development of knitwear was envisaged.The results show that the knitting process determines the damage form of the knitted fabric;the damage art makes the structural expression of knitted women's clothing diverse and adds to the artistic charm of knitwear.

关 键 词：“破损艺术” 针织工艺 手工针织 针织服装 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]