轻薄微弹皱组织衬衣面料的设计与开发  

Design and Development of Light and Thin Shirt Fabric withMicro-elastic Wrinkle Weave

作　　者：张五九 司佳佳 王珊 ZHANG Wujiu;SI Jiajia;WANG Shan(Jihua 3542 Textile Co.,Ltd.,Xiangyang 441002,China;Hubei Key Laboratory of New Environment-friendly Composite Fabrics,Xiangyang 441002,China;Shaanxi Editorial Department of Textile Accessories Co.,Ltd.,Xianyang 712000,China)

机构地区：[1]际华三五四二纺织有限公司,湖北襄阳441002 [2]新型环保复合面料湖北省重点实验室,湖北襄阳441002 [3]陕西纺织器材杂志社有限责任公司,陕西咸阳712000

出　　处：《纺织器材》2024年第5期50-53,共4页Textile Accessories

摘　　要：针对现有衬衣面料花型简单、线条缺乏变化、易被仿制等问题,以天竹/棉精梳混纺纱作为经纱,涤纶/天竹混纺纱作为纬纱,设计开发天竹/CJ 70/30 11.8×T/天竹50/50 11.8+44.4 507.5×354 208.5小提花组织面料;详述该面料的原料选用、上机组织设计、经纬纱质量指标以及整经、浆纱、穿综穿筘和织造工序的工艺要点,并对坯布布样外观进行展示和说明。指出:该面料组织较复杂,外观纹路清晰、凹凸有致,花纹错落变化有轻微褶皱、轻薄微弹且难于仿制;优化工艺后,其织造生产效率为92.1%,产量为225 m/(8 h),下机一等品率为93.6%,经后整理修织入库一等品率可达99.89%,可提升企业经济效益和市场竞争力。Aiming at the problems the existing shirt fabrics are simple in pattern,lack of change in lines and easy to be imitated,a small jacquard weave fabric of bamboo/CJ 70/3011.8×T/bamboo 50/5011.8+44.4507.5×354208.5 is designed and developed with bamboo/cotton combing blending yarn as warp and polyester/bamboo blending yarn as weft.The selection of raw materials,weaving design on machine,warp and weft quality indexes of the fabric,as well as the key points of warping,sizing,drafting,denting and weaving processes are described in detail,and the appearance of grey cloth samples is displayed and explained.It is pointed out that the fabric has a complex weave,clear appearance lines,concave and convex,pattern change at random and have slight wrinkles,light and thin with micro-elastic and is difficult to imitate.After optimizing the process,the weaving production efficiency is 92.1%,the production is 225 m/(8 h),the first-class product rate off the machine is 93.6%,and the first-class product rate put in storage after finishing with mending and weaving can reach 99.89%,which can improve the economic benefits and market competitiveness of enterprises.

关 键 词：天竹 棉 衬衣面料 整经 浆纱 穿综 穿筘 织物组织 刺轴 防卷边 

分 类 号：TS103.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]