清代服饰云纹探析  

Analysis on the cloud patterns in Qing dynasty clothing

作　　者：孙晓丽[1] Sun Xiaoli(School of Art Design,Beijing University of Technology,Beijing 100124,China)

机构地区：[1]北京工业大学艺术设计学院,北京100124

出　　处：《纺织高校基础科学学报》2024年第4期115-122,共8页Basic Sciences Journal of Textile Universities

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学一般项目(23BH146)。

摘　　要：针对清代服饰云纹的形态和设计方法,采用文献考据法、实证研究法和比较研究法,梳理清代服饰云纹的形态演变脉络,归纳清代服饰云纹的造型特征、色彩特征和装饰功能。研究表明:清代服饰云纹在承袭明代样式的基础上发展演变,受清代舆服制度等的影响而形成时代风格。清代服饰云纹按造型可归纳为沉稳敦厚型、纤秀流畅型、短圆规则型3大类,这3类云纹有着明显的演变渐进关系;清代服饰云纹按色彩可归纳为五彩云纹、青云纹、金云纹3大类,这3种调式的云纹各自有着较为固定的配色程式;清代服饰云纹在整幅纹样中或充当主纹,或充当辅纹,起着点题、完善情景、丰富寓意等作用。In view of the morphology and design methods of the cloud patterns in Qing dynasty clothing,the morphological evolution of the cloud patterns in Qing dynasty clothing was sorted out by the methods of literature review,empirical research and comparative research,and the shape characteristics,color characteristics and decoration function of the cloud patterns in Qing dynasty clothing were summarized.The results show that the cloud patterns in Qing dynasty clothing develop and evolve on the basis of the Ming dynasty style,and are influenced by the Qing dynasty′s public service system to form a distinctive style of the times.According to the shape,the cloud patterns in Qing dynasty clothing can be classified into three categories:steady and thick type,slim and smooth type,and short round and regular type.These three types of cloud patterns have a clear progressive relationship;according to the color,the cloud patterns in Qing dynasty clothing can be classified into three types:multicolored cloud pattern,blue cloud pattern,and golden cloud pattern.The color matching of these three types of cloud patterns all have stylized characteristics;the cloud patterns in Qing dynasty clothing serve as either the main pattern or the auxiliary pattern in the entire pattern,and play the role of highlighting the theme,refining the scenario,and enriching the meaning.

关 键 词：清代 服饰 云纹 造型 色彩 装饰功能 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]