乌珠穆沁毡绣工艺文化探析  

An Analysis of Uzemchin Felt Embroidery Craft Culture

作　　者：木斯 王赫德 Mus;Wang Hede(School of Design,Inner Mongolia Normal University,010022)

机构地区：[1]内蒙古师范大学设计学院,010022

出　　处：《中国蒙古学（蒙文）》2024年第4期73-78,207,208,共8页CHINA MONGOLIAN STUDIES

基　　金：国家社会科学基金艺术学项目“交融与互鉴视野下的蒙古族传统工艺研究”(编号:21CG190)。

摘　　要：锡林郭勒盟乌珠穆沁地区是蒙古族毡绣工艺保留较为完整的地区之一。乌珠穆沁毡绣工艺别致,色彩明艳,图案丰富,寓意深厚。本文基于乌珠穆沁毡绣工艺的实地调查资料,并结合诺颜山匈奴遗址出土的古代匈奴毡绣品残片与《元史》《蒙古风俗鉴》等历史文献中关于毡品与毡绣品方面的记载,初步梳理了乌珠穆沁毡绣的历史源流、传承方式、工艺流程以及文化交融的艺术特色等内容。乌珠穆沁毡绣的传承主要以母亲言传身教的方式传于女儿为主。制毡工艺注重就地取材、崇尚白色,制作过程中形成了互助友爱的传统文化习俗,民间擀毡颂词中记录着相关内容。毡绣的绣制主要包括图案的设计、刺绣针法、采用手指度量传统方法以及色彩对比特色等。艺术特色方面体现了蒙古族地域文化特征与当地人的色彩审美偏好,保持着较浓郁的游牧文化特征。另一方面受中原文化、藏传佛教文化、伊斯兰文化等的影响,凸显了乌珠穆沁毡绣在色彩、图案、审美等方面逐渐形成多元文化交融的特色。毡绣图案大多具有象征意义,如象征五蓄兴旺的牛鼻纹(哈木尔纹)、象征生命不息的特纹、象征深远绵长的回形纹等。另外,羊、鹿、马、牛等动物图案也都是游牧生活与文化的体现,表现出人们对于美好生活的向往。Uzemchin area of Shilingol League is one of the areas where Mongolian felt embroidery craft is relatively intact.Uzemchin felt embroidery craft is unique,that has bright color,rich pattern,profound meaning.Based on the field investigation data of Uzemchin felt embroidery,combined with the fragments of ancient Xiongnu felt embroidery unearthed at the Xiongnu site in Noyan Mountain and the records of felt and felt embroidery in historical documents such as Yuan History and Mongolian Customs,this paper initially combs the historical origin,inheritance mode,process flow and artistic characteristics of cultural integration of Uzemchin felt embroidery.The inheritance of Uzemchinn felt embroidery is mainly passed on from mother to daughter in the way of words and deeds.Felt making process pays attention to local materials,advocating white,forming a traditional cultural custom of mutual assistance and friendship in the production process,and the relevant content is recorded in the folk rolling mat tribute.The embroidery of felt mainly includes pattern design,embroidery stitch,traditional finger measurement and color contrast features.The artistic features reflect the Mongolian regional cultural characteristics and the local people's color aesthetic preference,maintaining relatively strong nomadic cultural characteristics.On the other hand,influenced by the Central Plains culture,Tibetan Buddhist culture and Islamic culture,Uzemchin felt embroidery has gradually formed the characteristics of multi-cultural integration in color,pattern and aesthetic.Most of the felt embroidery patterns have symbolic significance,such as the symbol of the five prosperous ox nose pattern(Khamar pattern),symbolizing the endless life,symbolizing the far-reaching and long shape pattern.In addition,sheep,deer,horses,cows and other animal patterns are also the embodiment of nomadic life and culture,showing people's yearning for a better life.

关 键 词：乌珠穆沁毡绣 工艺 文化交融 

分 类 号：J528[艺术—艺术设计]