面膜中蓝铜肽经皮渗透性和改善皮肤衰老作用研究  

Transdermal permeability and anti-aging skin effects of copper glycyl-histidine-tripeptide in facial masks

作　　者：魏国志 代颖 汪国鹏 李和伟 WEI Guo-zhi;DAI Ying;WANG Guo-peng;LI He-wei(Changzhou Weibo Hi-Tech Co.,Ltd.,Changzhou Jiangsu 213000;Zhongcai Health(Beijing)Biological Technology Development Co.,Ltd.,Beijing 101503)

机构地区：[1]常州伟博海泰化妆品有限公司,江苏常州213000 [2]中财瀚熙(北京)生物科技发展有限公司,北京101503

出　　处：《中南药学》2024年第9期2369-2374,共6页Central South Pharmacy

摘　　要：目的考察面膜中蓝铜肽的皮肤渗透性和对衰老皮肤的改善作用。方法采用离体小鼠皮肤为皮肤模型材料,应用Franz扩散池法测定Ⅰ代和Ⅱ代面膜中蓝铜肽在皮肤真皮层中驻留量和经皮累计透过量;采用D-半乳糖联合紫外光照射连续60 d诱导小鼠皮肤衰老模型,测定贴敷面膜后小鼠皮肤的含水量、透明质酸、Ⅰ型胶原蛋白含量和血浆中MMP-1与MMP-2表达水平,以评估面膜中蓝铜肽对衰老皮肤的改善作用。结果贴敷20 min后,Ⅱ代面膜中蓝铜肽在小鼠真皮层中驻留量和经皮累计透过量分别约是Ⅰ代面膜的5.8和4.6倍;与Ⅰ代面膜相比,Ⅱ代面膜能显著提高衰老小鼠皮肤中含水量、透明质酸、Ⅰ型胶原蛋白含量,显著降低小鼠血浆中MMP-1与MMP-2表达水平。结论Ⅱ代面膜中蓝铜肽的皮肤渗透性更好,且具有较好地改善皮肤衰老的作用。Objective To determine the transdermal permeability of copper glycyl-histidine-tripeptide in facial masks and their effect on skin aging.Methods In vitro mouse skin was used as the model material,and Franz diffusion cell method was used to measure the resident amount in the dermis and cumulative transdermal permeation of copper glycyl-histidine-tripeptide in both generationⅠandⅡmasks.Additionally,a mouse model of skin aging was induced by continuous D-galactose administration combined with UV radiation for 60 days.The water content,hyaluronic acid,typeⅠcollagen content in mouse skin,and expression levels of MMP-1 and MMP-2 in the plasma were measured to determine the effect of copper glycyl-histidine-tripeptide in facial masks on skin aging.Results After 20 minutes application,the resident amount in the mouse dermis and cumulative transdermal permeation of copper glycyl-histidine-tripeptide were approximately 5.8 and 4.6 times higher in the generationⅡmask as compared with those of generationⅠmask.Compared to generationⅠmask,the generationⅡmask greatly increased the water content,hyaluronic acid level,and typeⅠcollagen content in the aging skin of mice,while much reduced the expression levels of MMP-1 and MMP-2 in the mouse plasma.Conclusion GenerationⅡmasks containing copper glycyl-histidine-tripeptide show better skin permeability against aging skin in mice.

关 键 词：面膜 蓝铜肽 经皮渗透 皮肤衰老 MMP-1和MMP-2 

分 类 号：R285[医药卫生—中药学]