基于菠萝蛋白酶的羊毛生物酶法防毡缩整理  

Bio-enzymatic anti-felting finishing of wool based on bromelain

作　　者：姚科廷 刘颖[2] 王强[2] 王俊 栾文辉 周志钢 史元庆 YAO Keting;LIU Ying;WANG Qiang;WANG Jun;LUAN Wenhui;ZHOU Zhigang;SHI Yuanqing(College of Textile Science and Engineering,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Key Laboratory of Science&Technology of Eco-Textile,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Shandong Nanshan Fashion Sci-Tech Co.,Ltd.,Yantai 265706,China;Zhejiang Haoyu Technology Co.,Ltd.,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织科学与工程学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]江南大学生态纺织教育部重点实验室,江苏无锡214122 [3]山东南山智尚科技股份有限公司,山东烟台265706 [4]浙江灏宇科技有限公司,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第10期79-87,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家重点研发计划项目(2021YFC2104000)。

摘　　要：针对微生物蛋白酶在羊毛酶法防毡缩整理过程中易造成羊毛纤维损伤的问题,本文采用植物蛋白酶(菠萝蛋白酶)与预处理结合的工艺对羊毛织物进行防毡缩整理。结果表明,菠萝蛋白酶在预处理的基础上能够有效改善羊毛织物的防毡缩性能,整理后的织物毡缩率为5.29%,强力损失率为4.10%。通过扫描电镜、亚甲基蓝着色等表征方法综合判断,菠萝蛋白酶作用于羊毛鳞片层,进而实现在降低羊毛织物毡缩率的同时将强力损失率控制在一个较小的水平。Wool is a kind of natural protein fiber with excellent characteristics such as fullness of hand and excellent warmth retention.Its products belong to high-grade textiles and are favored by consumers at home and abroad.However,due to the unique scale layer structure on the surface of wool fibers,products thereof are prone to felting during processing,washing and use,which seriously affects the wearability of the fabric.Therefore,the problem of shrink-proofing has always been one of the key research issues in the field of wool spinning.At present,most of the shrink-proof wool products on the market are obtained by chlorination.The chlorination method has low cost and good shrink-proof effect,but the process of this method will produce adsorbable organic halide(AOX),which brings serious environmental pollution problems.Protease anti-shrinkage treatment is an ecological anti-shrinkage processing technology that has been mainly studied at present.It has the advantages of mild and safe reaction conditions and easy degradation of waste liquid.However,most of the enzymatic shrink-proofing uses proteases from microorganisms and animals.These proteases enter the fiber through the gap of wool scales during the shrink-proof finishing process,and hydrolyze the CMC layer and the cortex layer at the same time,so that the internal cortex structure of the wool fiber is rapidly disintegrated,resulting in a significant reduction in fiber strength.The bromelain is a thiol protease derived from plants,and its effect on wool tends to be“hydrolysis mode”.Its hydrolysis object is mainly keratin of wool scale layer,which will not lead to“rotten core”phenomenon.Therefore,it has little damage to the mechanical properties of wool.To solve the problem of heavy pollution of chlorination method and great damage of wool fibers caused by animal protease,the anti-felting finishing of wool fabrics was carried out by the combination of bromelain and pretreatment.The pretreatment used a self-made pretreatment agent A,which is a sulfinate.It

关 键 词：羊毛织物 预处理 菠萝蛋白酶 防毡缩整理 低强损 

分 类 号：TS195.56[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]