新疆营盘遗址出土丝织物染料和纤维品种及来源  

Dye and fiber varieties and sources of silk fabrics from the Yingpan site in Xinjiang

作　　者：郭丹华 杨萌发 刘剑[2,3] 赵丰 李文瑛[5] 康晓静 GUO Danhua;YANG Mengfa;LIU Jian;ZHAO Feng;LI Wenying;KANG Xiaojing(Zhejiang Museum of Natural History,Hangzhou 310014,China;International Institute of Silk,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;China National Silk Museum,Hangzhou 310002,China;School of Art andArchaeology,Zhejiang University,Hangzhou 310030,China;Xinjiang Research Institute ofArcheology and Cultural Relics,Urumqi 830011,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江自然博物院,杭州310014 [2]浙江理工大学国际丝绸学院,杭州310018 [3]中国丝绸博物馆,杭州310002 [4]浙江大学艺术与考古学院,杭州310030 [5]新疆文物考古研究所,乌鲁木齐830011

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第10期115-122,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家重点研发计划课题项目(2019YFC1520302,2019YFC1521302)。

摘　　要：文章通过对新疆营盘遗址出土的汉晋时期部分纺织品进行染料和纤维品种鉴别,分析这批织物的纺织材料来源,为出土纺织品提供科学认知和后续保护提供依据。采用高效液相色谱—离子阱质谱联用技术鉴别染料品种,采用形貌分析、蛋白质组学方法鉴别丝纤维品种。分析结果明确了这批营盘出土的丝织品使用了川黄檗和西茜草染料;纤维采用家蚕丝和野桑蚕丝;推测这批织物中使用的家蚕丝纱线产自四川、湖南、湖北地区,野桑蚕丝纱线产自新疆本地,不同品种的丝线在原料产地采用当地产的植物染料进行丝线的染色,织物为新疆本地织造。A lot of textiles are unearthed from the Yingpan site.The climate of Yingpan is dry,so the colors of the unearthed textiles are well preserved,which provides reliable samples for dye identification.These textiles provide important evidence of cultural and technical exchange on the Silk Road during the Eastern Han and Jin Dynasties.It is of great significance to clarify the spread and development of textile dyes,silk fiber raw materials and weaving techniques on the ancient Silk Road in China,which not only enriches the information database of ancient textile cultural relics,but also provides scientific basis for the subsequent protection,restoration and display of cultural relics.Eight silk samples from the Yingpan site in Xinjiang were selected for study.On the one hand,the dye and fiber species were identified.On the other hand,the places of origin of these fabrics were analyzed according to the dye and fiber varieties and the characteristics of yarns and fabrics.High performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry(HPLC-MS)was used to identify dye varieties,and fiber micro-morphological analysis and proteomics methods were used to identify silk fiber varieties.By identifying the varieties of dyes and fibers of the eight samples,and combining the identification results with the analysis of the structural characteristics of yarns and fabrics,three major conclusions were drawn.Firstly,there are mainly two types of dyes for silk fabrics unearthed from the Yingpan site in this study:the main colorants detected in the red dye are alizarin and purpurin,indicating that the source of the dye is Rubia tinctorum;the presence of berberine as the main ingredient in the yellow dye,with small amounts of palmatine and pharmacophorine,suggests that the source is Phellodendron chinense.Rubia tinctorum is native in Xinjiang,while Phellodendron chinense is grown in Sichuan,Hunan and Hubei provinces.The sources of these two dyes exhibit distinct regional characteristics,which provides important reference for place origin analys

关 键 词：营盘遗址 染料 纤维 黄檗 西茜草 家蚕丝 野桑蚕丝 

分 类 号：TS101.921.8[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程] K876.9[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]