基于SWAN模型的西沙群岛永乐环礁波浪数值模拟与时空分析  

Numerical simulation and spatiotemporal analysis of waves atYongle Atoll, Xisha Islands based on SWAN modeling

作　　者：邱妮珊 姚作芳 左秀玲 罗盛 QIU Nishan;YAO Zuofang;ZUO Xiuling;LUO Sheng(College of Resources and Environment,Guangxi University,Nanning 530004,China;School of Marine Sciences,Guangxi University,Nanning 530004,China;Guangxi Laboratory on the Study of Coral Reefs in the South China Sea,Guangxi University,Nanning 530004,China)

机构地区：[1]广西大学资源与环境学院,南宁530004 [2]广西大学海洋学院,南宁530004 [3]广西大学广西南海珊瑚礁研究重点实验室,南宁530004

出　　处：《地理科学进展》2024年第9期1811-1825,共15页Progress in Geography

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(42276182);广西自然科学基金项目(2022GXNSFAA035548);广西大学自然科学与技术创新发展倍增计划项目(2023BZRC019)。

摘　　要：精细波浪数据是研究岛礁珊瑚分布和地形地貌结构的基础。目前,珊瑚礁体内部及更小尺度上开展的长时间序列精细化波浪模拟研究还很缺乏,不足以获取岛礁区域精细化的波浪特征。论文以中国南海西沙群岛的永乐环礁为研究区,基于SWAN模型自嵌套波浪模拟和16 m分辨率地形数据,开展2017—2021年永乐环礁高分辨率精细化岛礁波浪模拟,并基于地貌、方位和岛礁分析了研究区有效波高、浪向、波浪能流密度等的精细空间分布特征。研究结果表明:模型模拟波浪与实测波浪Pearson相关系数为0.95,显著性水平P<0.01;永乐环礁5年平均有效波高和能流密度随月份呈现“U”型变化趋势,NE向的平均浪向频率为20%;深潟湖和礁坡的5年平均以及最大有效波高和能流密度最高;平均能流密度呈现南部暗礁最高、西南部次之、北部和西部最低的规律;自外海传播进潟湖的波浪,各方位上礁坡到礁坪的能流密度衰减高于30%,岛礁南部衰减最多达72.7%。研究可为珊瑚分布规律探讨、珊瑚礁保护与恢复和海岸工程建设等提供方法和理论支撑。Fine-grained wave data are the basis for studying the coral distribution and topography of islands and reefs.Currently,there is a lack of long time series fine wave simulations carried out in the interior of coral reefs and on smaller scales,which is insufficient to obtain the fine wave characteristics of the island and reef areas.This research took Yongle Atoll of Xisha Islands in the South China Sea as the study area,and carried out a highresolution refined island wave simulation of Yongle Atoll from 2017 to 2021 based on the self-nested wave simulation of the SWAN model and resolution-16 m topographic data.The study analyzed the fine spatial distribution characteristics of the effective wave heights,wave directions,and the average wave energy in the study area based on geomorphic units orientations and islands and reefs.The results show that the correlation coefficient between modeled and measured wave data was 0.94,and P<0.05.The five-year average significant wave heights and energy of Yongle Atoll showed a"U"-shape through the months,and the average wave frequency in the NE direction was 20%.There were spatial differences in the wave characteristics of different geomorphic unites,and the maximum wave height and maximum energy were the highest in deep lagoons and at reef slopes.The average wave heights and energy of the deep lagoon,point reef,and the reef slope were higher than those of the shallow lagoon and the reef flat.Among the eight directions,average energy was the highest in the south,followed by the southwest.Among the different islands and reefs,the southern reef had the highest average energy.The attenuation of energy from the reef slope to the reef flat was higher than 30%in all directions,and the attenuation in the southern part of the reef was up to 72.7%.This study provides methods and a theoretical support for the exploration of coral distribution patterns,coral reef protection and restoration,and coastal engineering construction.

关 键 词：南海 SWAN模型 波浪特征 珊瑚礁 地貌 

分 类 号：P731.22[天文地球—海洋科学]