马山楚墓大袖型衣袍形制分析与形象复原  

Analysis of the shape and image restoration of the big-sleeved robe from the Chu tomb at Masha

作　　者：王柯 宋柯欣[1] WANG Ke;SONG Kexin(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430000,China;Institute of Design Innovation and Fiber Science,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430000,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,湖北武汉430000 [2]武汉纺织大学设计创新与纤维科学研究院,湖北武汉430000

出　　处：《东华大学学报（社会科学版）》2024年第3期51-63,共13页Journal of Donghua University:Social Science

基　　金：2019年度国家社会科学基金冷门“绝学”和国别史等研究专项项目“楚国服饰研究”(项目编号:19VJX170);湖北省教育科学规划2021年度重点课题“课程思政视域下荆楚优秀传统文化融入地方高校艺术类专业课的机制研究”(项目编号:2021GA032);2021年度湖北省高等学校省级教研项目“中华优秀传统文化与艺术硕士(艺术设计领域)教育的融通机制研究”(项目编号:2021331)。

摘　　要：为了厘清楚国大袖型衣袍的形制结构特征,本文运用三重证据与对比研究法,以马山楚墓中出土的大袖型衣袍实物为依托,将文献、图像、数据进行互证,根据数据得到衣袍款式结构,从而进行衣袍实物复原。研究认为:楚国大袖型衣袍没有严格的尺寸规定,从衣袍造型来看为中心对称式,衣袖呈垂胡样式,袖长一般长于衣长的一半,袖口相较于中原的深衣更宽;在衣片裁剪方式上,面料幅宽和单位纹样影响了衣片的裁剪方式;独立的腋下嵌片与下裳门襟上部斜三角形的出现有利于增大门襟拥掩量以及袖底活动量,辅助下裳衽部自然打开方便行走,为大袖型衣袍作为外衣穿着提供了可能。对马山楚墓出土的大袖型衣袍结构形制的研究有利于进一步明确楚国衣袍的具体特点,从而完善与细化楚国服饰的体系研究。In order to clarify the shape and structure characteristics of the NUS sleeved robe,the three-fold evidence and comparative research method were used to rely on the actual large-sleeved robe unearthed in the Chu tomb of Mashan,and the documents,images and data were mutually corroborated.According to the data,the style and structure of the robe can be obtamed,so that the physical restoration can be carried out.The study believes that there is no strict size regulation for the large-sleeved robe of the Chu State,and the robe shape is symmetrical,the sleeves are in a draping style,the sleeve length is generally longer than half of the length of the robe,and the cuffs are wider than those of the Central Plains deep coat;In terms of the cutting method of the clothing piece,the appearance of independent armpit inserts and the oblique triangle on the upper part of the placket is conducive to increasing the amount of placket cover and the amount of movement at the bottom of the sleeve,assisting the lower part of the garment to open and walk conveniently,and providing the possibility of wearing the large-sleeved robe as an outerwear.The study of the structure and shape of the large-sleeved robe unearthed from the tomb of Chu in Mashan is conducive to further clarifying the specific characteristics of the Chu robe,so as to improve and refine the systematic research on the clothing of the Chu State.

关 键 词：马山一号楚墓 袍服 袖型 嵌片结构 复原 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]