元代凌氏男装服饰形象整体设计研究——《元青花釉里红楼阁式人物谷仓·前世传奇》  

Overall Design of Ling'sMen's Clothing Image in the Yuan Dynasty:"Blue andWhite Glaze Red Pavilion Barn with Characters in the Yuan Dynasty·Past Life Legend"

作　　者：吴霜 宋敏[1] WU Shuang;SONG Min(School of Art,Soochow University,Jiangsu Suzhou 215000,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州大学艺术学院,江苏苏州215000

出　　处：《工业工程设计》2024年第5期49-57,共9页INDUSTRIAL&ENGINEERING DESIGN

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学项目(20BG119)。

摘　　要：《元青花釉里红楼阁式人物谷仓·前世传奇》是中央广播电视总台文博探索节目《国家宝藏》第四季第三期走进江西博物馆模块中根据国宝元青花釉里红楼阁式人物谷仓上所载墓志铭设计的墓主人凌氏男扮女装就读于长芗书院下山时途遇逃荒至江西的难民,决定回到凌家开仓赈灾,最终刘炳文终成眷属共同救助灾民的故事。由于凌氏生平除家世、婚、丧以外再无记载,因此本文通过梳理凌氏家族谱系、生活地区、时代背景补充了凌氏生平相关资料。参照元代舆服制度和文献资料,对应墓葬壁画、寺庙壁画、人物卷轴画等图像遗存,结合服装实物,对凌氏女扮男装时的服饰形制、面料、色彩、纹样等方面进行了具体分析和考据,勾勒还原元代汉族男子服饰的特点和风貌。The third issue of the fourth season of the cultural exploration program"National Treasure"by China Radio and Television Group focuses on the Jiangxi museum module,specifically delving into the national treasure"Blue and White Glaze Red Pavilion Barn with Characters in the Yuan Dynasty·Past Life Legend".According to the epitaph engraved on the barn,the tomb owner Ling,who disguised as a man while studying at Changxiang Academy and met refugees fleeing from famine to Jiangxi on the way home down the hill,decided to come back to Ling'family to open the barn for disaster relief.Finally,Ling and Liu Bingwen got married and rescued victims.Because there is no record of Ling's life except family background,marriage and funeral,the relevant information of Ling's life is supplemented by combing the family pedigree,living area and background of the times.With reference to the costume system and documents of the Yuan Dynasty,according to the image remains of tomb murals,temple murals,scroll paintings of characters,and combined with the physical costumes,concrete analysis and textual research are conducted on the shape,fabric,color,pattern and other aspects of Ling's costume when she disguised as men,and the characteristics and features of the Han men's costume in the Yuan Dynasty are outlined and restored.

关 键 词：元代 凌氏 袍服 幞头 四片靴 

分 类 号：J523[艺术—艺术设计]