定制旗袍纸样的自动生成  

Automatic generation of customized cheongsam pattern

作　　者：张晓含 包怡云 吴继辉[1] 王欢 那洛芾 ZHANG Xiaohan;BAO Yiyun;WU Jihui;WANG Huan;NA Luofu(School of Fashion Art and Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;Systematic Engineering Center of Jihua Group Corporation Limited,Beijing 102627,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029 [2]际华集团股份有限公司系统工程中心,北京102627

出　　处：《纺织学报》2024年第10期177-183,共7页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：市属高校分类发展-北京服装学院“服装学”新兴交叉学科平台建设项目(11000024T000003073871)。

摘　　要：为提高定制旗袍纸样的适体性,实现定制纸样的快速生成,探讨了基于人体尺寸差异的定制旗袍纸样生成方案。首先通过人体测量实验从118名初筛者中选出1名标准体样本和27名涵盖各种体型特征的样本,然后完成标准纸样的绘制并进行样衣试穿评价,再以27名涵盖各种体型的受试者与标准体之间的尺寸差异为基础,制定出纸样调整规则,对调整后的纸样进行样衣试穿评价,验证调整规则的可行性和普适性;最后依据纸样调整规则建立数学模型,利用Visual Basic编程软件,建立旗袍纸样自动生成系统,实现定制旗袍纸样的自动生成。研究结果表明,选择的测量项目和纸样调整规则适用于旗袍的个性化定制,所开发的定制旗袍纸样自动生成程序具有较好的可行性。Objective To improve the fitness of customized cheongsam pattern and realize rapid generation of customized pattern,a customized cheongsam pattern generation scheme based on human body size differences was discussed.Method Firstly,a standard body sample and 27 samples covering various body types were selected from 118 initial screened participants through anthropometric experiments.Then complete the drawing of the standard pattern and evaluate the fitting of the sam-ple clothes,based on the size differences between 27 subjects of various body types and the standard body,a pattern adjustment rule was developed,and the adjusted pattern were evaluated for fitting to verify the feasibility and universality of the adjustment rule.Finally,based on the rules of pattern adjustment,a mathematical model is established.Using Visual Basic programming software,an automatic generation system for cheongsam pattern is established to realize the automatic generation of customized cheongsam pattern.Results Through human experiments,27 experimental samples and standard body were selected from 118 initial screened partic-ipants According to the standard body size,draw the basic cheongsam pattern.The sample clothes were made and evaluated for the standard system,and the sample clothes had good try-on effect.According to the characteristics of human body size,24 anthropometric items are formulated.On the basis of the basic pattern,the pattern adjustment rules are formulated based on the data difference of an-thropometric items between samples,and the pattern adjustment rules are explained from four parts:vertical direction,horizontal direc-tion,shoulder adjustment and armhole adjustment.After 4 steps of adjustment,the adjustment of the experimental sample pattern was completed,and the adjusted 27 patterns were made and evaluated.All the sample effects were consistent with the standard body sample.According to the pattern drawing method and the principle of cubic spline curve,the reference point of the pattern curve is confirmed,and th

关 键 词：旗袍 服装定制 纸样自动生成系统 Visual Basic 人体尺寸 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]