拉曼技术在化妆品经皮吸收领域的应用  

Application of Raman Technology in Percutaneous Absorption of Cosmetics

作　　者：倪芳 冯法晴 李静 何一凡[2] 梁超 张晓洁 孙丽丽 NI Fang;FENG Faqing;LI Jing;#HE Yifan;LIANG Chao;ZHANG Xiaojie;SUN Lili(EviSkin Cosmetics Technology(Beijing)Co.,Ltd.,Beijing 102401,China;Scientific Research Base of Cosmetics Supervision,Beijing Technology and Business University,Beijing 100048,China)

机构地区：[1]三立慧评(北京)检测技术有限公司,北京102401 [2]北京工商大学化妆品监管科学研究基地,北京100048

出　　处：《香料香精化妆品》2024年第5期49-55,128,共8页Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics

摘　　要：化妆品的经皮吸收是其能否真正发挥功效的前提。评价经皮吸收的方法中,共聚焦拉曼光谱法由于其自身优势而逐渐被重视起来:非侵入性检测过程、更少的样本处理、能够实现原位和逐层检测等。在体法无复杂的样品处理过程、无损原位测试,而离体法能够实现相对更深的皮肤深度测试。综述了拉曼光谱技术在化妆品领域进行经皮吸收的应用,从不同的方法应用上对现有的研究进行了在体、离体的检测方法分类,另外从经皮给药的研究领域进行借鉴,挖掘不同方法的创新点与成果,并对化妆品领域下拉曼光谱应用的优缺点与前景做了分析与展望。The percutaneous absorption of cosmetics is a prerequisite for their efficacy.Among the methods to evaluate transdermal absorption,confocal Raman spectroscopy has been paid more attention because of its advantages:non-invasive testing process,less sample handling,in situ detection,layer by layer detection,etc.In vivo detection,sample handling is simple and non-destructive for in situ testing,while in vitro method enables relatively deeper skin depth testing.In this paper,applications of Raman spectroscopy in the field of cosmetics were summarized,and the existing research methods were classified in vivo and in vitro methods.In addition,the research field of transdermal drug delivery was discussed for reference.The innovation points and achievements among different methods were explored.The advantages,disadvantages and prospects of Raman spectroscopy in cosmetics were also analyzed and prospected.

关 键 词：经皮吸收 拉曼光谱 化妆品 在体检测 离体检测 

分 类 号：O657.37[理学—分析化学] TQ658[理学—化学]