宋代“一年景”花冠的形制与审美  

Shape and aesthetics of"Yi Nianjing"corolla in the Song Dynasty

作　　者：闫兰兰 汤婕妤 曹爱娟[2] YAN Lanlan;TANG Jieyu;CAO Aijuan

机构地区：[1]上海工程技术大学纺织服装学院 [2]杭州职业技术学院达利女装学院

出　　处：《时尚设计与工程》2024年第5期56-58,共3页The Journal of Fashion Design and Engineering

基　　金：上海工程技术大学通识教育核心课程建设项目《中国历代女性妆饰赏析》(t202309002);上海市教育科学规划项目《基于接受视角的高校艺术设计教育模式研究》(C2023179)。

摘　　要：中国古代女子好花冠,尤以宋代为盛,最为典型的是宋代”一年景”花冠,极具审美情趣。从史学、图像学和设计美学等角度来剖析“一年景”花冠的形制与审美,得出以下结论:首先,花冠的命名源于花卉元素和冠或帽的结合体,“一年景”花冠的名称源自宋代“一年景”装饰文化;其次,“一年景”花冠形制继承了唐代以帽为框架的设计,同时又结合了宋人喜爱“四时俱全的”赏花情趣;再次,“一年景”花冠集四季花卉于一处,体现了天人合一和四季顺遂的美学思想;最后“,一年景”花冠造型与宋代女子的理想身材一样,体现了纤细修长的审美。Ancient female's favorite cornet was flower cornet,especially in Song dynasty.There were varieties of beautiful flower cornets in the history,especially the"Yi Nianjing"flower cornet,which fused the aesthetics of Song dynasty.The characteristics of"Yi Nianjing"flower cornet were analyzed based on the historiography,iconography and design aesthetics.The conclusions were obtained as follows.Firstly,the name of flower cornet came from two indispensable elements,flower and cornet or hat."Yi Nianjing"was a kind of decoration culture in Song dynasty.Secondly,the shape of"Yi Nianjing"flower cornet used hat structure,and fused Song's interest that four-seasons flowers are together.Thirdly,"Yi Nianjing"flower cornet had four-seasons flowers in the same time,which highlighted the Chinese philosophy of harmony between human and nature,as well as the best wishes that being well through the year.Finally,the shape of"Yi Nianjing"flower cornet had the same beauty-appreciation with female's body shape in Song dynasty,which was tall and slender.

关 键 词：宋代 花冠 “一年景”花冠 史学 图像学 设计美学 

分 类 号：S68[农业科学—观赏园艺]