北朝风帽俑服饰特征的演变及其成因探析  

Analysis of the evolution and causes of the clothing characteristics of theNorthern Dynasty’s wind hat figurines

作　　者：严碧莹 邓莉丽[1] YAN Biying;DENG Lili(Art School,Jiangsu University,Zhenjiang 212001,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏大学艺术学院,江苏镇江212001

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第11期130-138,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：江苏省研究生科研与实践创新计划项目(KYCX24_3912)。

摘　　要：北朝是风帽俑成型与发展的重要时期,风帽俑服饰具有鲜明的时代特征与民族特色。文章通过对相关实物及文献的搜集与梳理,对风帽俑服饰特征及演变展开分析,主要包括风帽样式及身衣样式两方面。并在此基础上,论证影响风帽俑服饰特征演变的社会原因。研究表明,北魏前期,风帽样式较为丰富;北魏后期,风帽样式减少;东魏北齐时期,风帽样式又再多元化,装饰趣味浓郁;西魏北周时期,风帽样式较为单一,风帽功能以保暖为主。身衣的样式在时间线上则呈现由鲜卑服饰元素鲜明至胡汉融合的特点。中原与西域文化的融合、佛教文化的渗透、服饰审美风尚的更迭,以及服饰制作材质的差异,是促使北朝风帽俑服饰特征形成及演变的重要因素。The Northern Dynasties were an important period for the formation and development of wind hat figurines.The clothing of wind hat figurines not only had distinct characteristics of the times and ethnic features,but also reflected the materialization of textile technology,aesthetic trends,and ideological concepts at that time.This article systematically analyzes the characteristics and evolution process of the clothing of the Northern Dynasty’s wind hat figurines through the collection and organization of relevant physical objects,image materials,and literature.Based on this,it elaborates on the social reasons for the formation of the clothing characteristics of the wind hat figurines.The article divides the Northern Dynasties into four historical periods:the early Northern Wei,the late Northern Wei,the Eastern Wei and Northern Qi,and the Western Wei and Northern Zhou.The development and evolution of the clothing characteristics of the wind hat figurines can be traced along the timeline.The clothing composition of the wind hat figurines can be specifically divided into two parts:wind hats and clothes.The styles of these two parts have the following development trajectory:in the early Northern Wei Dynasty,the styles of wind hats were relatively rich,including cockscomb wind hats,cross wind hats,dome wind hats,etc.The clothing was mainly composed of Xianbei pants and pleated clothes,which were light and practical.In the late Northern Wei Dynasty,with Emperor Xiaowen’s promotion of sinicization reform,Xianbei clothing integrated the characteristics of Han clothing of broad robes with a wide waistband.The narrow sleeves and narrow legs were changed to wide sleeves and wide legs,and the styles of wind hats were reduced accordingly.During this period,wind hats mainly included dome shaped wind hats and pointed wind hats.During the Eastern Wei and Northern Qi periods,the traditional hat style of the Xianbei people became popular again,but with changes in the environment,it developed slightly and produced many new style

关 键 词：北朝风帽俑 服饰特征演变 文化融合 佛教文化 服饰审美风尚 服饰制作材质 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]