杭州织锦发展沿革和品种特征分析  

Analysis on the evolution and variety characteristics of Hangzhou brocade

作　　者：周赳[1,2] 徐青 李启正[1,2] ZHOU Jiu;XU Qing;LI Qizheng(College of Textile Science and Engineering(International Institute of Silk),Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zhejiang Provincial Research Center of Silkand Fashion Culture,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第11期139-149,共11页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金艺术学项目(22BG121);浙江文化研究工程项目(17WH20017-1Z)。

摘　　要：杭州织锦是杭州地区生产的丝绸品种,也是古代和近现代浙江地区生产的具较高技术含量的丝绸产品之一。文章以杭州织锦的起源及其发展沿革为线索,根据古籍、史志记载溯源杭州织锦,参照国家标准明晰杭州织锦的概念,对其品种范围进行界定,再对杭州织锦的主要品种特征进行历史梳理和分析,进而明确当代杭州织锦的主要特征。该研究成果能为杭州织锦的历史传承与当代创新提供理论依据和适用的方法论,也为其他传统丝绸品种的溯源和当代创新提供借鉴。Hangzhou brocade refers to silk produced in Hangzhou.As the most technologically advanced silk product in Hangzhou,Hangzhou brocade is known as the“flower of Eastern art”.In 2011,the silk weaving technique(Hangzhou Brocade Weaving Technique)was included in the third batch of national intangible cultural heritage list.Hangzhou Dujinsheng Industrial Co.,Ltd.,as a representative of Hangzhou brocade production enterprises,was selected as a representative project protection unit of national intangible cultural heritage.The inheritance and innovation of Hangzhou brocade have made major breakthroughs.The study of Hangzhou brocade is conducive to providing theoretical basis and applicable methodology for the historical inheritance and contemporary innovation of Hangzhou brocade,and reference for the traceability and contemporary innovation of other traditional silk varieties.This article takes the origin and development of Hangzhou brocade as a clue,clarifies the concept of Hangzhou brocade according to national standards,defines its variety range,and analyzes the organizational structure,appearance effect,and raw materials of Hangzhou satin products.It summarizes the artistic and technical beauty characteristics of Hangzhou satin,and explores the variety characteristics and historical and cultural value of Hangzhou satin.Research has found that the title of Hangzhou brocade originated from the period of the Wu and Yue states,with the earliest brocade workers being ancient people from Runzhou.Therefore,Hangzhou brocade,together with Song brocade and Yun brocade,belongs to the ancient Jiangnan brocade,but each has its own characteristics in the development process of modern times.Hangzhou brocade is a color woven jacquard silk fabric produced in Hangzhou,mainly with complex weaves.The surface of the fabric presents a rich texture color effect,and its main feature is that the group combination of warp and weft is no less than 3,that is,when the warp group is 1,there are at least 2 weft groups,and vise versa.The complex

关 键 词：杭州 织锦 丝绸 品种 设计 非遗 

分 类 号：TS141[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计] K876.9[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]