海上丝路中国与葡萄牙之间的纺织文化交流互鉴  

Textile Cultural Exchange Between China and Portugal on the Maritime Silk Road

作　　者：宋炀 杨晓瑜 刘倚辰 SONG Yang;YANG Xiaoyu;LIU Yichen(School of Fine Arts,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100028,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院美术学院,北京100028

出　　处：《服装学报》2024年第5期413-419,共7页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学重点项目(24AG020);北京服装学院研究生教学改革阶段性成果项目(NHFZ20230181)。

摘　　要：自16世纪葡萄牙开辟直达东方的新航路起,东西方之间的跨文化交流日益频繁,形成了“中国专供葡萄牙市场的外销纺织品”和“葡萄牙的‘中国风’纺织品”。运用跨文化艺术史、物质文化史、图像学等研究方法,探究葡萄牙“中国风”兴起的过程与原因,并分析海上丝绸之路上中葡纺织文化交流的意义与影响。研究发现,中葡贸易中的纺织品在视觉审美、设计法则、材料技术等方面受到了两国文化的熏陶,并且早在欧洲与中国初次接触之际,纺织品就作为重要载体,基于双方频繁的商贸往来、技术转移及人员互动等,见证了“中国风”在16世纪葡萄牙的悄然盛行。In the 16th century,Portugal took the lead in opening up a new direct route to the East,creating the direct trade channel between Europe and China.Since then,crosscultural exchanges between the East and the West have become increasingly frequent.Based on this background,this paper discussed the two issues of"Chinese textiles specially woven for the Portuguese market"and"Portuguese'Chinese style'textiles",and used the research methods of cross-cultural art history,material culture history and image science to explore the process and reason of the rise of"Chinese style"in Portugal.The significance and influence of SinoPortuguese textile cultural exchanges on the Maritime Silk Road were also analyzed.Textiles in Sino-Portuguese trade have been influenced by both cultures in terms of visual aesthetics,design principles,material technology and so on.As early as the first contact between Europe and China,textiles served as an important carrier,enabling the"Chinese style"to quietly prevail in Portugal in the 16th century through the frequent business exchanges,technology transfer and personnel interaction between the two sides.

关 键 词：外销纺织品 中葡文化交流 海上丝绸之路 “中国风”装饰风格 

分 类 号：G125[文化科学]